Jump to content
SAU Community

Ikeya Suspension

vesh
 Share

Recommended Posts

vesh Proficient

vesh

Posted
Posted

I have a R33 GTR which I use for track days and some weekend use, it is not a daily car.

I am wanting to upgrade the suspension arms and have been looking at some Cusco parts. I have recently been told about the Ikeya parts, but wanting to know if it is really worth it for the extra $$$ . Also, might be a stupid question, but it looks harder to setup Ikeya arms compared to the Cusco ones. Am I right?

These are the Ikeya parts I am looking at getting:

Ikeya:

Adjustable rear lower arms

Front upper link

Rear upper arms

Roll centre adjuster lower kit

Tie rod end

Traction adjuster rod

I am also currently running Tein RA coilovers which I will be getting rebuilt as the rear is knocking

Thanks in advance for your feedback

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364359-ikeya-suspension/
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Your going to get weekend warriors with good budgets saying ikea stuff is great and some more serious guys too as well as brand whores.

Then the budget conscious saying cusco, etc are just as good

Then the serious racers saying they all need improvements.

Depends what you want from the car and what you want to spend.

You could listen to the guys saying they are great and don't worry when this thread is seen they will come out of the woodwork. (I'd rekon 50% of them dont even own ikea arms, 30% would have them and not even drive the car regularly on the circuit or it's still in a workshop and the last

20% well who knows)

Seriously they work as do most other brands. They do have some refined geometry built into the lower arms but it's nothing to get all wet about.

Money well spent? Not in my opinion but it's yours that matters.

Nur33 Mentor

Nur33

Posted
Posted

I had cusco arms on my R33 GTR but after awhile of some hard abuse the the Rear Upper Camber Arms Cracked quite badly both sides, and my front cusco castor arms aren't much better, i have bit the bullet and replaced all my arms every single one with the whole entire Ikeya Formula Catalog. Yes they may be expensive but you get what you paided for and the build quality is awesome very solid bits of gear, thats my opinion anyways.

JGB33 Collaborator

JGB33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I agree with nur33 you get what you pay for, I have 33 gtr do serious track work and run slicks last thing you want is cheap arms braking.i bought ikeya arms all round years ago and my car gets punished on the track every month,they are still mint.more than enough adjustment in them.

Edited by JGB33
Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted

Your going to get weekend warriors with good budgets saying ikea stuff is great and some more serious guys too as well as brand whores.

Then the budget conscious saying cusco, etc are just as good

Then the serious racers saying they all need improvements.

Depends what you want from the car and what you want to spend.

You could listen to the guys saying they are great and don't worry when this thread is seen they will come out of the woodwork. (I'd rekon 50% of them dont even own ikea arms, 30% would have them and not even drive the car regularly on the circuit or it's still in a workshop and the last

20% well who knows)

Seriously they work as do most other brands. They do have some refined geometry built into the lower arms but it's nothing to get all wet about.

Money well spent? Not in my opinion but it's yours that matters.

What do you suggest Risking ?

Custom built to requirements ?

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Not nessisarily.

I fitted up a full set of arms to an r32 GTR today. They were Chinese arms, I threw the rod ends in the bin and replaced them with FK ends. Blasted the paint off them and TIG welded some plate gussets into them, re painted them black and fitted them up.

Happy days.

They were a Dam sight cheaper then ikea arms and as strong if not stronger.

Ultimately yes depending on the application you'd fabricate your own specifically for your use, it's not very common practice though as people don't want to spend the money unless it's a fairly serious circuit car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...