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timing belt

DISZ-IT

By DISZ-IT,
in General Maintenance

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T0nyGTSt Grand Master

T0nyGTSt

Posted
Posted
does any major mechanic do them?

or should i take it to some sort of work shop,

thanks for the info!

i heard its an active belt and if it snaps it destroys the engine,

is that tru?

1. in principle, any mechanic who has successfully worked on a car as complicated as a VL Commodore (!!!) should find a Skyline a piece of piss (he may get confused by the sheer number of cam gears though).

2. the RB is an interference design so the valves WILL contact the piston crown if the belt is not taut.

3. The belt is $80. It is a 2 hour job. With standard rates at $100 per hour... you get the picture. I suggest you do all belts + water pump at the same time. At 100,000km this stuff is mandatory IMO.

T.

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Trust33 Grand Master

Trust33

Posted
Posted

wow $400 iv saved a shit load of money from doin it myself.$95 for the belt plus $155 for the n1 water pump,nothing for the install?all you need is the proper tourque settings the right tools and a bit of know how.I found a R32 gtr workshop manual on this site with the same engine settings for torque downloaded it and whala.My car has been fine.But if your not confident dont do it yourself.

:wavey:

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fiendish_S14 Newbie

fiendish_S14

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I'm guessing that swapping the timing belt while the engine is out of the car will reduce labour considerably. And it should be a straightforward job? I've never done a timing belt change on any engine here, let alone a foreign RB25det. But an engine is an engine and i think i will just get my mechanic to come over and do the job for me.

I'm thinking of using the Power Enterprise timing belt sold on phase2motortrend... http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorspor...poenrbtibe.html

The Greddy timing belt is even cheaper, but the brief description hasn't sold me on it. http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorspor...s/grrbtibe.html

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GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Possibly not worth the extra cost, given the AUD performance against USD. The stocker is fine for up to 120K km and is about $100 AUD delivered from Just Jap in Sydney.

The annoying part is to undo the big bolt at the front of the harmonic balancer and then removing this sucker with a puller. Put it in gear with the handbrake on and undo the bolt ACW and remove. The critical part is aligning the crank at top dead centre (TDC) and the cams have an index mark that must be aligned against the rear cam gear protector plate index marks. Try to do this before removing the harmonic balancer and as a tip, remove the spark plugs to allow easy turning of the crank later. Take car out of gear.

Remove the belts for the power steer alternator and A/C and the cam gear cover plate. Then use the puller to remove the harmonic balancer. Then remove the lower timing belt cover. Then the left hand tension adjuster for the cam belt on the left as you look at the front of the engine must be loosened (17mm) off and a 4mm (i think) allen key inserted and used to slack off the tensioner as far as possible by rotating clockwise, then retighten the nut to hold it.

Behind the harmonic balancer is a plate, remove it from the shaft, then remove the timing belt.

You can now see the water pump (easy to replace) and the oil pump that sits around the front of the crank. The oil pump requires the sump to be removed or some blatant butchery to remove as it is the front attachment for the sump and has a large bolt head protuding below into the sump. Leave this alone if the oil pressure is fine. I have never had a water pump fail either.

Double check the alignment of the index marks. there is one now that can be seen on the crank timing belt drive which points to a v in the oil pump housing on the deep alloy flange sitting out to protect the belt drive. Make sure the cams are aligned.

Now locate the index marks on the timing belt and orient forward as marked. Align the most distant one with the drive index mark. Then slip it on and work the belt up to the exhaust cam gear and slip it on. The slack can be mounted over the inlet cam adjuster for now to hold it in place. make sure the belt is between the 2 guides halfway up the front of the engine and recheck the belt indexes on the exhaust cam and the crankshaft drive.

Now the slack must be pulled from the belt between the exhaust cam and crank by holding the belt to the exhaust cam and pulling up on the left side of the belt hard until it can slip over the inlet cam gear.

Recheck the indexes for everything. Don't use a screwdriver for working the cam belt as it can nick or cut it and reduces the life.

Once satisfied that everything aligns, tension the belt adjuster back onto the timing belt until there is about 5 mm deflection on the belt when you push against the longest leg.

Now reinsert the bolt and turn the engine one turn CW (make sure out of gear now) to ensure no mistakes or interferences are present. Remove the bolt and reinstall the front belt guide plate and the lower cam belt plate, then the harmonic balancer and its bolt. Put car in gear and tension the bolt. refit everything else and make sure all derive belts are tensioned properly with about 5mm of deflection and you should be done.

Remember to always check twice.

I'll read this again and try to add some more tips later.

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  • 2 weeks later...
skyline Collaborator

skyline

Posted
Posted

Definately do the belt as soon as you can,and if you have the extra dollars do the other belts as well,plus consider the water pump bearing in mind how many kms have been done here in aust. and what type of coolant used.As a footnote my 96 gts-t has 86k on the clock and we have done one water pump and are now on our third timing belt!!!

Regards,

SKYLINE (Kym).....

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GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

The manual states the harmonic balancer bolt is 446-466N.m or 329-344ft.lb.

To undo it use a 1/2" drive socket with a breaker bar and locate the bar against the front chassis cross member under the radiator (requires radiator removal) so it is firm. Take car out of gear, keep hands clear and make sure ignition module is disconnected, then turn the key to start and wind over briefly. this will crack off the bolt tension allowing easy removal. Alternatively, place car in gear and try to muscle it off. Make sure handbrake is very tight or a friend holds brakes on.

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  • 11 months later...

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