Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 gtr front seats retrimmed in grey leather (jus to refreshen) vgc $650 pair

r33 gtst high flowed turbo, ball bearing and steel wheeled, pulled 270kw @17psi eith more to go if I had more mods. Has lines and internal gate attached. $650

r33gtr front lip FRP in alright condition can use some attention. Minor repair previously done which can be sanded down but barely noticeable on car $250

gteddy profec a, solenoid clicks a little but that's normal according to manufacturers, free greedy tubo timer, will sit in ashtray area perfectly $300

apexi pen turbo timer black 70

GC8 mild steel catback with MRT muffler 500

Billion VFC water temp and voltag gauge with all wiring 150

Oil temp and oil pressure gauges black face white lit with all wirin and sensors 120 pair

Dildo knobsx4 20ea

more to add, pics coming, pickup livrpool or happy to post at ur expense

3a918f6a-3450-781e.jpg

3a918f6a-3487-7c34.jpg

3a918f6a-34a9-bf7b.jpg

3a918f6a-34ca-fe99.jpg

3a918f6a-34ea-9f84.jpg

3a918f6a-3530-254a.jpg

3a918f6a-356e-2c1b.jpg

3a918f6a-359a-bf70.jpg

Mines ecu r33 s1 250rwkw with pod full exhaust cams highflow turbo fmic @14psi $350

Blitz pod 50

R33 pink afm 100

4x50mm gauge holder plate 20

Power fc with HC suit late model SR serial SR17 $800

NOTE: can't remember where I put the oil temp and press sensors so can take gauges alone fr $60 or wait til I find it. (press I know where it is)

All pms replied

I'm posting up on my iPhone and it's not exactly the easiest thing to use regarding uploadin pics from the phone. If the layout was like tapatalk then would be much easier.

Warlord- I did send pm's to you with pics of the cage :S I didn't reply on the seats cos someone was already in the talks to come inspect so I didn't want to undercut anyone, for that I apologise

Turbo already posted out so definitely sold

I'm posting up on my iPhone and it's not exactly the easiest thing to use regarding uploadin pics from the phone. If the layout was like tapatalk then would be much easier.

Warlord- I did send pm's to you with pics of the cage :S I didn't reply on the seats cos someone was already in the talks to come inspect so I didn't want to undercut anyone, for that I apologise

Turbo already posted out so definitely sold

ok thats cool but i never got those pics in the car of the cage.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...