Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i'll try and keep this short so its easy to read.

I'm building an RB26 for race use. Now i dont have unlimited cash for it, but i havn't really set out a budget yet either. But i'm looking to buy the best quality parts i can get without being rediculous...

What i want the engine to be able to do;

Power: 300 - 350kW

Power range: 3,000 - 8,500/9,000RPM, yes i want it to rev high!

Reliability and longevity

Response within that rev range.

Now i'm not interested in talking about turbos, manifolds or fuel systems at this point, just engine internal parts, block and head..

Basically what i'm asking for is your advice on what parts i should be getting, your personal opinion, value for money, have you heard of XX part failing and what happened etc etc. Just wanting some input so i can make up my mind and start purchasing.

I'll be after advice on;

Rods

Pistons

Rings

Bearings

ARP Studs will be used throughout...

Gaskets (mainly head gasket)

Oil pumps - I'm thinking Tomei

Harmonic balancer

Clutch - I'll need this for when the engine is being assembled...

Head components;

Cams

Valve springs

Valves

Valve guides/seats

Just throw us some feedback on what you thinks good guys.

I'm hoping to have ALL the long motor parts for $8k - $10k. Then there will be engine assembly, manifolds, turbo, fuel system, management, pipework etc costs on top of that.

My main goal is to make this engine last for a long time!

Lets see,

In a nutshell that power is attainable without forging... but if u wana boooosttttt ull need to start changing bits in order to get that power and still be safe

There is a kit on HighOctane that has everything you need for a forged build for 4600 i think its perfect for what you want as im geting the same one! :)

One of the main ones is the oil pump .. in a nutshell GO TOMEI lol ull thank god so much in the long run that u spent the extra moneys on that as oil issues is huge on the 26 also make sure u get that oil restrictor

Headgasket and all other gaskets in this kit are tomei so u have no dramas with quality ur option on what size u want

Now with that 8500 to 9000 rpm u want ur going to have to go sexy cams with double valvesprings i highly recommend you have a look at CAMTECH cams they have kits to suit the 26 and are far more advanced than ur off the shelf crap from hks and tomei as advertised durations are not correctly displayed these guys are the shit :)

let me know how it goes choosing !

10k is pretty restrictive for that RPM range.

I know you don't want to talk turbos etc, but that choice is quite critical in you decision.

The reason i say this is because for 300-350rwkw, all turbos that fit that power range do not need more than 7500rpm or there abouts. Hence aiming for 8500+ is kinda pointless and will add excessive cost when you simply don't need it :)

Also with regards to parts, any can be killed and there are is always a horror story. So that request in itself is hard to answer and it will more so come down to how well the motor is assembled and tuned over and above the specific brand.

10k is pretty restrictive for that RPM range.

I know you don't want to talk turbos etc, but that choice is quite critical in you decision.

The reason i say this is because for 300-350rwkw, all turbos that fit that power range do not need more than 7500rpm or there abouts. Hence aiming for 8500+ is kinda pointless and will add excessive cost when you simply don't need it :)

Also with regards to parts, any can be killed and there are is always a horror story. So that request in itself is hard to answer and it will more so come down to how well the motor is assembled and tuned over and above the specific brand.

Bang on there!

Generally the lower you can keep your revs the longer everything will last.

I know, i have thought of this. Small power output, needs a smaller turbo. Higher revs needs a larger turbo = more power. To get a 26 to rev to that, you'd a fairly large turbo so that it operates in its efficiency range.

I just love a high revving engine, its just bliss!

Tomei pump is pretty much a goer, yes i have looked at camtech cams before.

I will be running forged internals, even though stock Nissan items would cope, i want that piece of mind.

It might be bliss to the ears but it's excruciating pain to the wallet and IMO 10k isn't going to be enough anyway.

I mean just between the clutch, oil pump, new crank & pistons you are already @ around 5.5k-6k - Shit gets expensive if you want more RPM, very expensive.

I get the feeling you are going towards:

330-340rwkw

As much response as possible

And we can forget 8500+ :teehee:

For 10k, with the bits you want... 8000rpm limit, 2.6l bottom end done, head rebuild - i reckon you won't have a cent left outta 10k

Plus its a race motor, going to have its balls rung each time it goes out. Makes sense to keep RPM lower if you don't really need it.

I can see your point, and i agree with it. Probably wanting something that just isn't realistic. Yes i'm chasing around 350kW, as anything more just isn't going to be any use in an R31.

I did know it was going to be an impossible task to get an engine to rev high on a budget but ah well.

The more important factors are;

Reliability and longevity and response.

Maybe look at getting a mild port done, remove the bumps in the exhaust port and polish, 80 grit the inlets and knife edge the splitter, polish combustion chambers and leave quench area (maybe just chamfer the edge on it). I ended up doing this to my head myself, just purchased a head porting kit of ebay, came up really good. As for the turbos -7s, -5s, even -9s? all depends on what you want out of your engine. Cams you dont really need to change, maybe just get adjustable cam gears and have them dialed in when tunning it? Could even use direct drop 260 degree 9.15mm in/ex but again all depends what you want out of your engine. Im actually going through a rebuild with mine atm and am way over the 10 grand mark!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...