Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Does anyone have a whiteline works package on their R33? I was wondering how this rates compared to other popular setups (Bilsteins, tiens etc).

Has anyone used this setup in a track environment?

Your thoughts on this are appreciated as I'm looking to install this soon.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36502-whiteline-works-package-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Whiteline works = Whiteline handling pack + Bilstien shock + Whiteline spring..

I have the handing pack installed, and attended a few track days, best money spent. And I currently have bilstien shock + whiteline spring installing, will let you know this afternoon when I pick up the car..

I'm looking at installing the entire whiteline package - Camber castor, springs, shocks, front and rear sway, strut brace, hicas bypass.

Sidewaymambo - Yeah i think the handling pack will do wonders when i have it fitted.....i was up against a bunch of porches and ferraris last track day....

To Morlock and all,

I fited the original whiteline sway bars several years ago(in actual fact we sent Jim our bars as samples so the first ones could be made,these were run with std shocks and lowered springs-too low and the car handled very good.)however the ride was hard to say the least and we were suffering premature tyre wear so we up graded the whole package to bilstein coilovers, whitelines new adjustable sway bars f&r,camber caster kit to the front and double camber kit to the rear.before fitting these i manufactured a hicase bypass kit to eliminate the 4wh steer.To say the car handles is an under statement,its firm very positive, turns extremely well.Mind you the ride height was brought back up on Jims advice to somewhere around the 445mm mark (wheel centre to guard lip) as i had these all fitted by Steve Cramp(manta racing and bmw-gtp fame) i had the car corner weighted and he achieved near perfect balance with corners coming to within 3kgs of each other.

I cant recomend this package any stronger than i have its the best monery you can spend on your 'liner,forget about any of the jap brand shockers as they are way to hard for our very inhospitable roads we have here in aussie.

Regards,

SKYLINE (Kym).......

currently i have a whiteline handling pack + rear diff brace + front camber kit installed on my ER34, running on stock shocks and tanabe variable rate springs and toyo trampios r1r hybrid tyres.

i've only ever used whiteline products on my cars (full works pack on my wrx) because jim and the gang are top blokes and i've always got great deals. so i can't comment on them vs aftermarket gear.

track performance is fantastic once you've dialed in the right settings. currently im running the recommended castor settings, 1.75deg negative camber in the front, hardest rear bar and close to softest front bar settings.

initial turn in is fantastic, nuetral to slight understeer coming out of the corner and predictable througout. body roll is not totally "flat" through the corners but that would mean sacrificing my street ride.

can't afford coil overs at the moment, but im not really fussed either, the way its handling now is great. should comment that spirited drives through the national park and such can get very bouncy but im really happy the way my suspension handles it. very compliant. says ALOT for a decent set of variable rate springs.

i've got tein flex coming in but i am also getting whiteline struts and adjustable control arms (i think)

would you recomend it being a good choice? i only have 153rwkw and it will most likely stay like that for years to come, but at least i will be able to turn quicker and smoother :D

hopefully sauvic has a skidpan day soon after they are fitted so i can learn to play with the settings

Say I wanted to fix/replace my rear end suspension with something from Whiteline (Im interested mainly in drags but also light track work). . . what would I be best getting? (It's a daily driver).

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...