Jump to content
SAU Community

BOV question

ABuSD

By ABuSD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

Im sure this or something like this has been asked a gazzilion times.

The little hose that runs from the BOV to the inlet manifold, ive takin it of the BOV stuck a screw in there now my cooler has heaps more flutter, but the BOV isnt blocked from this hose connection. My guage was showing .7 bar b4 now after tampering with it i have .5 bar can any1 tell me whats the difference, will it hurt my engine? My car goes like crap @ the moment and id rather leave it off, lose power but have flutter but i dont wanna break anything!

Any info on this would b great.

Cheers:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36506-bov-question/
Share on other sites
HoeTrain Community Regular

HoeTrain

Posted
Posted

Your turbo will be slow to spool up on gear changes as the flutter sounds is the air rebounding off your throttle plate back into the turbo fins a few times slowing the turbo down. You might find you car almost stalls at the lights when you pull up cause your engine adds extra fuel to compensate for the plumb back system installed on stock BOV's. It may cause the BOV to leak on boost due to the valve not shutting properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36506-bov-question/#findComment-728277
Share on other sites
sweetr33 Experienced

sweetr33

Posted
Posted

nah i did this also. I disconnected it from the bov side, put a screw in and i had no dramas. Car ran fine and had the flutter sound, i just recently connected it all back up as i am a little over the noise, it sorta makes out that u have something u dont, if u understumble what i mumble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36506-bov-question/#findComment-728951
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...