Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

I've given it some thought and I've decided to remove my GTR badges to go for the clean look.

Do you guys know how to do this safely without leaving any scratches? Although I know there aren't any screws, the badge is pretty well stuck on with the strong 3M tape as it's an original GTR badge?

Cheers.

Kev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365094-how-to-remove-rear-gtr-badge-safely/
Share on other sites

Hi fellas,

I've given it some thought and I've decided to remove my GTR badges to go for the clean look.

Do you guys know how to do this safely without leaving any scratches? Although I know there aren't any screws, the badge is pretty well stuck on with the strong 3M tape as it's an original GTR badge?

Cheers.

Kev

why would you...? post up pics when done i wanna see it.

I have removed a few GTR badges over ther years and I use the fishing line method.

It is important to start the line between the adhesive and the badge and work it back and forth in a cutting action. The trick is to leave the adhesive strip on the panel and not mark the paint. When the badge is off then soften up the adhesive with something like prepsol and slowly peel it off.

Good luck and if you take your time you can get them off with no paint damage.

I Used the old hair dryer, No fishing line just got something under it. Use a rag to protect the paint if its a damaging object the as you still circulate the heat around the badge area pell back the badge. Then used eucalyptus oil to help get off the glue.

I have removed a few GTR badges over ther years and I use the fishing line method.

It is important to start the line between the adhesive and the badge and work it back and forth in a cutting action. The trick is to leave the adhesive strip on the panel and not mark the paint. When the badge is off then soften up the adhesive with something like prepsol and slowly peel it off.

Good luck and if you take your time you can get them off with no paint damage.

+1 = foolproof

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...