Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

went to mates private property and did a run , speedo kept going past 180 and but figure it must be out a bit though it went near to perhaps a 200km mark , then backed off as was running out of road

Also have purchased a Speed Meter , though R6n350gt has put a tutorial on how to install up will be taking the car to auto elecs to hopefully sort out the delimiter using the Speed meter , will keep track of results and post up once done , if it is figured out then $135 is a good price to delimit car , as well as recording 1/4 mile times,

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh you can deff recal it. there are shops in syd that can do it.

Please: do tell how!

My V35 sedan is very much out of whack due to tyres/wheels, and I have been quoted many, many hundreds of dollars to have the recalibration (to within +/- 1kmh) done.

As mentioned before, the speedo guage stopping at 180 can be solved with the nismo guage set which runs upto 280 kmph. The actual speed limit can be fixed with various speed limit removers. Most jap tuners that make electronics make them. The pivot one is probably the most reasonably priced at only about $150 delivered. They have digital speed display upto 350kmph and they remove the speedcut.

Here is the link on nengun

http://www.nengun.co...t/speed-meter-v

Even if you have the nismo gauges already so dont need the digital speed too, these units are still cheaper than all the other speed limit removers. Cant confirm compatibility as i havent looked into them too much. HKS and other brands also make speed limit removers but are more expensive, the HKS ones are around $350 but i think they are model specific.

If youre having issues with speedo being out, your probably better off picking up a guage like scanguage or something that reads speed off the ODB port and allows for adjustments. I know the scanguage does allow adjustments in the speed as i think they are originally designed for 4wd's which often run larger wheels and have speedo issues. You can pretty much just put in a % correction for what it displays on the screen. This could be worked out with a tire size calcualtor to see the % speed difference and confirmed as correct with a GPS.

Edited by Ben-88

The HKS one should work at least but I wouldn't recommend cutting the CAN line to install it, all your speed data goes down the CAN line, there is no speed signal wire going to the ecu to bend. Just get an aftermarket ecu from Japan.

Please: do tell how!

My V35 sedan is very much out of whack due to tyres/wheels, and I have been quoted many, many hundreds of dollars to have the recalibration (to within +/- 1kmh) done.

i just did a googled speedo recal sydney found some places but call around a few performance places they should be able to do it, Croyden auto sports should be able to do it.

The HKS one should work at least but I wouldn't recommend cutting the CAN line to install it, all your speed data goes down the CAN line, there is no speed signal wire going to the ecu to bend. Just get an aftermarket ecu from Japan.

Who would you have to see to have that installed Ben?

Well thats a good point, a bit risky cutting into the can line.. all these new bus type setups are awfully complicated to work with when there arent plug and play electronics available. Not sure where you would have it installed, or rather who you would trust to have it installed.

It seems the pivot unit at least has been confirmed as not working for speed limit removal in this DIY article http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/364333-pivot-speed-meter-v-diy/

but the speedo does work for anyone that wants an alternative to the nismo guages.

Fortunately for us though, as mentioned there are many tuning companies where you can just buy an already flashed ecu with speed cut removed and other features. They fill up like a whole page in hyper REV.

Hmm i think the best option is going to be to get the nismo dash to keep the car looking clean on the inside and get the ECU flashed or replaced gona be expensive but will keep the car looking clean on the inside which is what i like.

*skips all posts

I have an apexi thingo ma bob which removes the 180km/h limit.

I hit 200km/h and it makes a buzzing sound.

edit: Or you can use your apexi hand controller to record your top-speed.

but srsly i'd look down, 200km/h isn't that fast.

Edited by SKITTLES

*skips all posts

I have an apexi thingo ma bob which removes the 180km/h limit.

I hit 200km/h and it makes a buzzing sound.

edit: Or you can use your apexi hand controller to record your top-speed.

but srsly i'd look down, 200km/h isn't that fast.

AAAAAAAAND you have a car that uses a single signal wire to the ecu that the apexi interrupts and changes

the V and M chassis use the CAN network to transmit it

its the communications network that many of the devices and sensors use to communicate to the ECU and each other.

if you cut it, it MAY sever some essential communications. what if the ECU needs to see your speed when you hit the brakes and ABS kicks in? what happens if your engine stalls every time you pull up because the ECU didnt know you were moving.

there are hundreds of potential problems. and many people will ignore scott's warning, and this one. but its your car, cut away!

This makes me think it will be better just to install speed meter for display of speed and Other settings rather than cutting this wire , really don't want to stuff up the speed signals

its the communications network that many of the devices and sensors use to communicate to the ECU and each other.

if you cut it, it MAY sever some essential communications. what if the ECU needs to see your speed when you hit the brakes and ABS kicks in? what happens if your engine stalls every time you pull up because the ECU didnt know you were moving.

there are hundreds of potential problems. and many people will ignore scott's warning, and this one. but its your car, cut away!

This makes me think it will be better just to install speed meter for display of speed and Other settings rather than cutting this wire , really don't want to stuff up the speed signals

best advice, ever lol

best advice, ever lol

Also with the pivot speed meter it can tell you how fast you went with a press of a button. So dont look, just drive then once you have stopped or slowed you can press to see what the max speed was and the max g-force in acceleration and breaking :) 188 was the most i could get out of it with a quick run on private road. I have not tried to max it out yet..

As to another ECU, i was on the verge of getting a technosquare flashed ECU from a 350Z but even though it would match up i would have to get my keys reprogrammed so the BCM would work with the immbolizer again

If you gonna do all that crap you may aswell get a pivot speed meter and a Utec EMS which has got speed limit removal feature and then you can get your car tuned and get more HP out of it... be cheaper that nismo gauge, flashed ecu, reprogrammed keys etc..

Pivot speed meter is easy as piss to install, the Utec will be too (dont worry ill write a guide lol) and then get a tune. $200 an hour, 1-2 hours max if still NA.

So $150 del for pivot speed meter

$400-450 for Utec delivered (second hand)

Install both yourself = free

tune $400

Total *ish $950 for a tuned car, more HP (usually 8-10RWHP from a tune once u have bolt ons), delimited and a speedo upto 350km that can record top speed, top g force in acceleration and braking, show g force on the fly, and do 100,200 and 400m timed runs :)

If you go 280km speedo $600-800

HKS delimit $300-$400

Install = who knows.. $200+

Total *ish $1100 min

Edited by R6n350GT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...