Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys sorri to ask but, which car would be quicker, a standard WRX or a standard R33 gtst, i saw an article the other day which said " WRX vs R33 gtst" and the guys oh shared there veiws on the question, whom i might had were all WRX lovers, said " that the WRX would win for the first 20 metres than when the R33 sees 2nd and 3rd its bye, bye WRX. Whats your view on this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/
Share on other sites

I've heard the WRX is much quicker 0-60mph because they get permanent 4WD and more grip, but when the Skylines get going they have a lot more HP going to the wheels than the WRX and so the Skyline would overtake.

The WRX gets excellent grip off the mark, but because they are permanent 4WD they lose a lot of HP through the drive train so mid and high range power doesn't get transmitted to the wheels as well as in the RWD Skyline.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-729466
Share on other sites

im a skyline lover, more gtr's hen gtst( to many around like wrx's) but my veiw on this is, that, really not to be rude, but they both same shit stock,( i owned a 97 rex stock and never lost to a gtst) so untill the mods come out there is no point comparing, sorry my 2 cents.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-729489
Share on other sites

Look at the factory 1/4 mile specs. The STi of the pre-bug eye era will beat the gtst I'd say over the first 400m no problem'o. The other models are another story.

It is a rather difficult question in reality since the R33's have plenty of km's on them and are fairly old. None of them were ever factory delivered in australia so you can't vouch for their state of tune being close to the factory spec by the time they arrived here.

I beat plenty of WRX's at the actual drag strip in my old R33 running the factory turbo's even some with upgrades. Once you upgrade the turbo however the question is too complicated to answer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-730267
Share on other sites

correct.

do a search man, not to be mean but you'll find better responses that way

before I had my GTR I used to own a S2 R33 and from my experience, if both cars are stock and both get clean starts, and the drag goes on long enough the skyline is quicker... off the line the rex will be a bit quicker, in second the skyline will get its nose infront, and in third get further ahead (1-2 car lengths). Although against an sti it has little chance stock (unless my mum is driving the sti).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-730311
Share on other sites

I agree, I lined up against a stock WRX, the model before the round headlight one, at willowbank. He definately beat me over the first 150m but after that I just ran him down and had a good few car lengths by the finishing line. My car only had a pod filter and a cat back at the time and the terminal speed was only around 96mph so my car is not too much over stock HP, if at all. Wouldn't try it at the traffic light grand prix, or an STI anywhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-730352
Share on other sites

Again i suggest doing a search as this has been asked numerous times.

Having owned both a MY98 WRX and R33GTST It is my opinion that from the experience i had the WRX is deffineatly faster off the mark but the R33 has it all over the WRX in topend.

Both of my cars where fairly stock (exhaust, pod) I perssonally would love to face them off and have seen.

Again it really depends on what is done to each.

my 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36532-bwrx-vs-r33-gtstb/#findComment-730372
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...