Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys! I have a problem with my r34 gt-v (non turbo 2000 model)where the orange engine light comes on and stays on after 4 mins of driving(now it comes on after a minute) a mechanic got the fault code which is 21- “ignition signal primary” after taking $44 from me he told me it was a coil pack and the next day took em apart and tested them and said they were fine and charged me another $120!!! (labour)

done some of my own research and some ideas of what it could be is: COIL PACK, IGNITER UNIT/switch..... although i think the igniter units are on the coil packs in the r34’s.

so..... what would u guys do from here? How much for new coilpacks? Spitfires? Pay another mechanic to test more competently? If so who? Keep driving it until the problem is easier to find? Will this do “Warning damage to the manifold!” lol i mean engine.

Thanx in advanceJ!

Slinky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365344-slinky-needs-help-with-engine-light/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

same thing happened to me which place did u go to just pm me, and after that they changed the spark plugs, and that didn't fix it when i came to collect so then they reverted back to coilpacks and charged me another 140 for the coilpacks after 220 on the spark plugs -_______-

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi.

I have the same problem, though it can go days without coming on.

It usually comes on when i am taking it easy and not really boosting much (RB25DET NEO)

When the light comes on the car noticably runs a bit rougher but i usually can turn the car off and then on again and the light is cleared.

Took it to a mechanic that specializes in EFI as I head it could be a leaking fuel injector.

He got the code (I think it may have been 21?)

Changed the first coil as he said it was faulty, replaced all spark plugs,

called me to pick it up then changed his mind as light came on again,

kept my car for two weeks (which was ok as i was waiting on compliance plates)

then charged me $560.00 to which i stupidly paid at the time.

Still have problem three years later and have been reluctant to get someone to look at it again..

Has anyone heard of a leaking injector causing this?

Thanks

Edited by GreyFox

hold on... you paid 220$ for spark plugs..

i paid 20 for diagnostic (coilpacks - this wasn't the problem according to them)

i paid 20 for testing

i paid 20 for spark plugs

i paid 160 for 2 hours of mechanical work

adds up to 220, but the thing is, it didn't fix anything

NOW I KNOW HOW TO DO IT MYSELF!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...