Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cheap wheels are sometimes fine for posing around on the street, however if you race on them, be prepared to possibly die or stuff it in the wall.

Having said that the number of fakes I see on the dyno that are basically buckled square from hitting tiny ruts in the road daily driving etc is frightening. There are no standards in this game of knock-off wheels, just the temptation to make them as cheap as possible to maximise margins. Thats the price some will pay for vanity.

just to reiterate the point

i cant believe people are still buying Fake brides and nardis, having first hand seeing both snap clean in half is not something that anyone should take a risk on to save a few hundred dollars. if you cant afford the real thing then dont buy it, save your money, or just use standard gear that at least wont try and kill you. If you believe the BS about its made in the same factory and just doesn't have the tags your an idiot

And at the end of the day when you put the real and fake together and have a good look there like apples and oranges. They only look the same in shitty pictures on the internet

28519110150266535287946.jpg

Ke55pig, on 09 October 2011 - 05:57 PM, said:

there 970 on g7 or sopmething like that dont really wanna spend that much

what about a clutch from RDA (brake supplier)? http://www.ebay.com....=item19c4374ba8 $345 del.

exedy STD for $324 del. http://www.ebay.com....=item4cf7168ade

exedy HD for $440 del. http://www.ebay.com....=item335f70f251

depends on your budget for $1k you can get a Nismo setup http://www.ebay.com....=item255aba6fdc

Cheers mate but there all push type clutches

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...