Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Chris,

what problems are you having with the 4wd system. PS: I dont have it here with me at the office, so I cant check for you but there a thread where you can download the GTR Service manual in a PDF 800pages about 22Mb... if you dont have an answer I check it for you when I get home tonight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729629
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I have the R32 Service manual and it says 'Nissan Special Power Steering Fluid' which was a little unhelpful. I had removed the front drive shaft for a skidpan day and i'm no longer getting as much torque to the front wheels. So I was going to try bleeding the hydraulics and changing the transfer case oil aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729663
Share on other sites

I also just had a GRID dash dancer installed by RevZone after this event, and it doesn't seem to be working in the 4WD mode (should be 50/50 split). The RWD works ok, but the 1st time I set it to 4WD the Active LSD and 4WD light came on in the dash and the car felt like the handbrake was full on. The car didn't want to move forward.

Now i'm getting the airbag and abs led comming on after about 15minutes of driving. But when I can put the car in neutral and roll along the led's go off.

So a few gremlins I need to sort out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729667
Share on other sites

Yeah the special power steering fluid they refer to is Nissan Matic D. I had to go and buy some from Nissan when my car was apart, and the mechanic didnt put in enough fluid when putting it all back together.

Meshmesh, not yet. Ive got the redline lightweight shockproof for the gearbox and transfer case, and redline 75w90 for the diffs sitting right next to me as I type this :) Will let you know how it goes if youre interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-729690
Share on other sites

So two litres is enough for gearbox and transfer case?

and I assume a litre each for the front and rear diffs?

The web site says MT90 for gearbox and trasfer case which is a 75W90, then says the diffs use a 75W90. There are 2 types of 75W90, the GL5+ and the GL4 (MT90) which one is correct?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730113
Share on other sites

You need two 3.785 litre bottles (1 US gallon) to do gearbox and transfer case. MT90 is reccomended for these then in brackets it has redline lightweight shockproof. Ive only heard good things about the shockproof, so went the shockproof. The 75W90 they sent me for the diffs is API GL5/GL6.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730130
Share on other sites

One 3.7 litre bottle should do both diffs. As told to me this is what the parts take

Gearbox -- 4.1 L

Transfer case -- 1.8 L

Rear diff -- 1.5 L

Front diff -- 1.0 L

I should be getting all those changed in the next week, if you havnt bought some by then Ill tell you how it goes :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730179
Share on other sites

I rang the VIC rep from redline and had a chat. He says the price on the net is a little bit high for retail price and he told me to give Oil World in cheltenham a call as these are the closest stockist to myself. Will let you know how much of a saving I make. Might be worthing ringing around in the future. depending on your local area

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36557-gtr-hydraulics/#findComment-730250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...