Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a lot of pm's about dry sump kits.

My setups are very close to now being available to people other than my immediate customers.

I'm going to be including

3/4/5 stage morosso pumps

Oil tank and mounts

Oil tank breather tank

Pro fabrication dry sump pan (seen in this thread)

A/C location pump bracket

ATi balancer (1000hp)

ATi drive mandrel

HTD belt and drive gears

Earls oil cooler

Earls oil block and remote mount

Rocker cover blacking plugs.

Adjustable oil pressure hob switch

Enough earls fittings to plumb the entire system and hose included as well.

No sway bar modification needed. No external head drain needed.

Tried and proven in several of my customers race GTR's

Finalizing details with earls regarding the plumbing at the moment so pricing will be out late this week early next week.

Price will be a shake up compared to what's currently available and it will include hose and fittings!!!

Don't scavenge from the rear of the cylinder head.

The entire idea of a dry sump is to create as much vacuum in the crankcase as possible

By scavenging at the cylinder head your drawing air back up from the crankcase through the head returns. You want all the negative pressure to be traveling towards the sump.

When you do a setup properly the rocker covers will be plugged up and the entire engine sealed. Anything over a 4 stage will need external vacuum regulation.

I'll send you a quote when I get a chance.

  • 3 months later...

Hi to everyone on the SAU. I've found this thread very interesting on dry sump systems as i'm currently build my R34gtr race car in the uk. My question's are to Risking and anyone else with some good info.

How many litres per 1000rpm would you need from your scavange pumps to acheive 8" to 12" of vacuum?

Would you say it is better to run the returns individually back to the tank rather than to manifold all the scavange returns back in one hose?

What would you say is the ideal hose size? -12 feed and -16 returns

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Neil

Having them plumb to a manifold and a single return is ok. Don't size the lines any smaller than the fitting size. If you know what your scavenge lines should flow from the manufacturer when they are flooded with oil let me know and I can check my flow velocity table and line sizing data.

I am not sure off my head will have to check and get back to you. When I spec'd it out with Bill Dailey he said I would have no problem running 12-15" of vacuum if the engine was sealed correctly.

I have a Peterson vacuum valve that I will probably mount off one of the outlets on the covers. I will plug the other hole.

Cheers Mike any info is appreciated. The 3 stage Titan pump i have can be geared to 17 litres per 1000rpm or 27 litre per 1000rpm it would be good to compare to what others are using.

I take it the peterson valve you are going to use is the filtered one which can be set to control the amount of vacuum you want? Have you or anyone else thought it necessary to run a perterson inline pop off valve from the cam covers back to the tank to control any possitive vacuum?

Cheers

Neil

I will follow up on the pump flow rate.

Yes I am using that Peterson vacuum regulator... maybe it would be a good idea for the "pop off". I am not sure if the vacuum reg. would function as both. I will follow up with my contact at Peterson to see if it is necessary. If you are running vacuum though (which I assume we both are) I am not sure how important it would be to vent positive pressure... as you won't really have any during running conditions.

General rule is to run the pump at half crank speed obviously.

I think you mean 17L/1000 revolutions?

Typically most manufacturers pumps run between 10-20L. Depending on the stage size, gear design etc.

Something to remember though if your sump isn't able to provide adequate scavenging and your running the pump hard you will still end up with oil surge. All the oil will be in the sump not in the tank....

I see so many poorly designed and built sumps that allow oil to travel past open scavenging ports or rely on oil pooling around the scavenge ports instead or being feed toward it.

If you have too much oil volume you will flood the scavengers and have lower vacuum..

I run my vacuum control out of the original dip stick location. I tap an NPT thread into it and use a -6 fitting.

I have done my own bleed control system that draws air from one of the turbo charger intake pipes.

I've done some testing with vacuum gauges in the rocker covers and in the dip stick hole.

With the regulator in the rocker cover crank case vacuum was 3-5mm/hg higher than when it was venting the crankcase directly.

Is you set it up for say 15 in the covers that potentially puts you around 18 in the sump which is bordering dangerous for litte ends in an rb26.

I know pressure should be equal in all directions if the engine is sealed (pascals principal) but the engine is not 100% sealed and the vent location is critical when oil is also traveling along the same route as the vented in air.

Thanks for the reply Risking, I'll take on board the advice with the vacuum regulator blead, as you said better to sensor the vacuum where it's at it's greatest. Do you also run your blead off the -6 fitting coming out of the dip stick hole? or off the cam covers? What size is the hole in your blead pipe -2 ?

My pump is a 3 stage Titan pump which has 2 scavenges in the sump and 1 pressure, i have a -12 feed and 1 X -16 return. In the circuit race series i'm building my car for we have to run a catch tank the same litres as the engine so i have to run a 3ltr catch tank, would you just vent the tank with a small filter on the top like all other dry sump catch tanks not vent to atmosphere like a convetional wet sump system?

My system hasn't run yet but as always trying to do it right, what i don't know is weather my current 17litre per 1000 revolutions is enough with 2 scavenges or weather it would be better going with the same 2 scavenges but have larger gears giving 27 litres per 1000 revolutions or just add another stage giving 3 scavenges?

Do you have any pictures of your vacuum blead and rocker plugs Risking? I use gts cam covers on my gtr though.

Thanks for any help.

075-1.jpg

074-1.jpg

20110916_3.jpg

076.jpg

Edited by neilo

The guys that wanted quotes send me an email

[email protected]

I'm not providing quotes via Sau any longer

Anyone that has received a quote from "pro

fabrication" on Sau recently for any fabrication work also send me an email as there is a chance you werent dealing with me.

  • 2 weeks later...

This thread needs some photos for those who dont get to see many dry sump setups or have never seen one.

Sorry the photos are not the greatest quality but they do show the dry sump.

Its a tight layout with a 5 stage system. These are of an RB26 in a GTR

gallery_20349_4609_101399.jpg

gallery_20349_4609_41454.jpg

gallery_20349_4609_141821.jpg

gallery_20349_4609_31592.jpg

Brad, does the Peterson require a scavenging manifold?

I have seen a lot of cars without one but my mechanic told me to ask Peterson to be sure. I called up the distributor in Aus and they were like...hm go and ask someone else. I am waiting for a reply from Peterson in the US.

Photos will be available in the next couple of days of a complete dry sump setup that I'll be installing and selling.

This will include everything required for a reliable 4 stage setup right down to the bracket for tank mounting etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, wondering if the HKS bar and water reservoir still available? Thanks 
    • What an awesome idea to fit the facelift Lamborghini Diablo headlights. They are a perfect fit!
    • An update regarding the registration with the DVLA I sent off the paperwork the day after I collected the car from the port, two weeks later it was all returned with a letter explaining they have rejected the application. This was because the cheque was £20 short for the road tax (I used a price list I found online). Nevermind it is what it is, it was sent back to them the following day with a new cheque. Fast forward another 2 weeks or so, I called them for an update to be told it had been rejected. Yesterday (16th September) I received the documents back along with another letter, this time it was because I didn't put an X in one box on the V750 (personalised number plate certificate), which declared that I had the rights to the personalised number plate. Why this wasn't mentioned in the first rejection letter, I don't know, but it could have saved this headache. The documents were sent back today, so fingers crossed third times a charm and it'll FINALLY be registered on the road just in time for the bad weather (woohoo!) To cheer myself up I lowered the front 25mm, was sick of seeing it sit like a monster truck. No idea how much clearance I'll have getting on and off the driveway, I'll worry about that when I can actually drive it
    • You're going to miss not worrying about rust in the strut towers like the Skyline shitboxes out there
    • A few little updates that weren't filmed due to not taking long to do or not interesting enough for their own video. My new K&N Air Filter arrived, I went with an RU-4180 which matched the dimensions of the universal cone filter the car originally had.  The battery had gone flat, while that was charging I tidied up the spaghetti wiring at the bulk head and down the sides of the engine Next job was to swap the stereo The Kenwood harness had the female ISO plugs cut off and the male ISO plugs cut off the adaptor loom and joined with bullet connectors. I ordered in a repair loom through work and re-did it all. New Kenwood unit installed (Android Auto, DAB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera) The bonnet/hood gas struts have been poor since collecting the car. I couldn't find any suitable replacements locally so took a chance on a pair from AliExpress.  The originals don't use a retaining clip to secure the cup onto the ball fixture, would explain why I struggled for 10-15mins trying to pry off the cups. The ball fixtures unscrew using a 12mm spanner, new ones are the same size. Sadly no photo of them fitted, you're not missing much lol The dished Momo steering wheel got replaced with my Momo Tuner, turns out I ordered counter sunk bolts for the horn trim ring (like they normally are for the steering wheel) instead of allen cap (flat seat)  A terrible photo of a Quaife style gear shift knob I've had stashed in my tool box for many years after purchasing the incorrect thread size (I can see a pattern emerging with ordering incorrect parts...) Also threw in a cup holder and a (empty) Boss Coffee can, because why not  
×
×
  • Create New...