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Dry Sumps And You.......


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This may be of use to other Dry Sumps noobs (like myself), who are struggling to find parts etc. I created a quick list of people who supply parts for dry sump setups. This is by no means a complete list, and I'd appreciate any info from others to expand the list. I'm hoping this will make life easier for others in the future. If anyone has specific part numbers that they know will work for Skyline setups that would be useful too.

Complete Kits

Hi Octane

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=874

Scavenger Pumps

Peterson Fluid Systems

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/pumps.html

Barnes

http://www.barnessystems.com/

Moroso

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=14005

Weaver Brothers

http://www.weaverbrothers.com/index.html

Dailey Engineering

http://www.daileyengineering.com/oil_pumps.htm

Auto Verdi

http://www.autoverdi.com/pumps.html

BDG

http://motorsport.bdg.com.au/drysump.html

ARE

http://www.drysump.com/Oil%20Pumps.htm

Raceline Oil Pumps

http://www.racelinepumps.com/pumps.htm

AVIAID

http://aviaid.com/products/pumps/pumps.htm

R&R Racing Products

http://www.rrconnectingrods.com/oil-pumps/oil-pumps.html

Wulff Pumps

http://www.wulffpumps.com/

Dry Sump Pan

Hi Octane (2WD)

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1828

ASR (RB30 RWD)

http://www.asroilpans.com/other-oilpan-gallery.html

Oil Tanks

Peterson Fluid Systems

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/tanks.html

Barnes

http://www.barnessystems.com/accessories.htm

Moroso

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=15201

Oil Pump Mount

Hi Octane (Ross Performance Mount)

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1830

Oil Pump Drive

Ross Performance

http://rossperformanceparts.com/timing_pulley_and_drive_systems.html

Lewis Engines

http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod396.htm

Fittings

Earls

http://www.earls.com.au/

Speedflow

http://www.speedflow.com.au/

Motorsport Connections

http://www.mscn.com.au/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=17

XRP

http://www.xrp.com/

Gator

http://gatorinduction.com.au/home/an-hose-ends-braided-hose

EFI Hardware

http://www.efihardware.com/products/c162/Earls-and-Speedflow-Fittings

Scavenger Filters

Motorsport Connections

http://www.mscn.com.au/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=138

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Richard I've being doing exactly that for an sr20 recently.

It's almost completed been a time consuming excersise.

Have also got one nearly finished for the barra ford engines too. Alot of machine time in them.

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This may be of use to other Dry Sumps noobs (like myself), who are struggling to find parts etc. I created a quick list of people who supply parts for dry sump setups. This is by no means a complete list, and I'd appreciate any info from others to expand the list. I'm hoping this will make life easier for others in the future. If anyone has specific part numbers that they know will work for Skyline setups that would be useful too.

awesome list and idea. the only one I'd add which is my favourite supplier of dry sump gear.... www.ebay.com just need to know what you are looking at and what the stuff is worth as it's just as easy to get ripped off as it is to get a bargain...

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Richard I've being doing exactly that for an sr20 recently.

It's almost completed been a time consuming excersise.

Have also got one nearly finished for the barra ford engines too. Alot of machine time in them.

awesome. :) yeah the downside with the billet gear is lack of flexibility. as you know someone like your self can make up a custom pan with sheet metal and a welder without too much work, but for a billet pan it means doing the design and then tying up a mill for hours and hours and then it's not easy to make changes to it without starting again from scratch so for one offs and small runs it's just so expensive. custom made sheet metal will always be the go in those cases I guess and for GTRs they are good in that you can retain a good portion of the stock sump (diff housing, basic frame etc).

still I'd love to see your billet pan with manifold incorporated. they such a neat solution and you surely save money on fittings. we both know how quickly -12 and -10 fittings and braided line adds up to being thousands of $.

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There is also heaps of guys out there doing and capable of doing dry sump pans, brackets and kits.

I know the hi octane kits are fairly common but my opponion is you don't get good value for money.

I've just done a dry sump setup for an r33 GTR which has come in well and truely cheaper than the "kits" getting around and the sump pan is far better. The owner did some shopping around for a Peterson pump, tank and the rest I've done. The plumbing was just over 2k which includes a -16 return, -16 pump feed, all the scavenge lines using the light weight hose, firewall bulkheads, billet oil mounts, oil feeds, pre filters, sump fittings, tank fittings, breather lines and fittings etc. I spend 10-20k a month with steve and the

guys at earls so the discount is fairly healthy

This is the 3rd dry sump steve has been out to quote in the last 2 weeks, others were an s15 and an F6 typhon, they love the phone calls saying come quote this car for me!

I've been meaning to speak with them about putting together a basic plumbing package for a 4 stage RB26. That way people could just make a phone call and get 95% of the fittings without the hassle of guessing what they need or being ripped off.

The big problem I've found with internal pumps is the scavenging manifolds. I've machined the manifold as a separate component that's sealed with o rings to the pump ports from inside the pan. It was impossible to machine a manifold with individual ports that was cleanable and was a single component with the pan.

I do my one off's by hand. If the owner wants an NC'ed pan with radius edges and curves etc I give my one to a mate who 3D scans it, adds radius' edges makes it look pretty then sends me back the file to CNC a final product.

I end up with two components, and it does take time but that way I'm in control and can see things that need to

change before wasting a 500x300x60 block of 6061 or a billion hours drawing something to have to change it half way through.

I've done the ford barra sump that way and may do the same with the SR20.

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so let me ask you this. do you reckon these days with the AUD vs USD it's possible to dry sump a RB26 GTR for $5-6K?

I know only a couple years ago it was a $10k excercise to do properly.

$300 for pump bracket

$800 for balancer and $150 for mandrel

up to $1000 for pump

$400 for tank

$2500 for lines and fittings

$1000 for sump (supplying your stock sump to be modded)

that's just over $6K. pump and tank may be got a bit cheaper too especially if buying used of ebay.

it's certainly a lot cheaper to do these days.

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Yeah it's easy to do now days.

For instance

I charge $880 for my sumps like the one in this thread

I picke up a used Dailey pump yesterday for $400 plus a rebuild kit for $330

I bought I used but good Peterson tank from eBay a month ago for $250

Brackets are around $400

Balancer is $1000

That's $3260 in parts

Paying retail your going to hit $5000 for lines and fittings.

I'm able to put together a basic line setup to suit most people for $3000 using quality stuff.

That's just $6260 with a high end pump rebuilt. It could be cheaper if you do the modified AC bracket trick ($200) and buy a decent used pump for $500 and not rebuild it.

Ive got 3 GTR's at the moment that are getting dry sump conversions and one that's getting an external pump wet sump done. The average cost of those 3 cars is $6400 for parts.

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Because I've gone ahead with it and selling them in the very near future I'm sorting out forum trader agreements

So yes it's gone for the time being.

I put a heap of money into it so won't not be selling them on the largest skyline related forum....

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Because I've gone ahead with it and selling them in the very near future I'm sorting out forum trader agreements

So yes it's gone for the time being.

I put a heap of money into it so won't not be selling them on the largest skyline related forum....

Could you let us know where they are going to be available from when you have them ready to go.:cheers:

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cool. so yeah I was a bit low. so call it $7K in parts + labour to fit. still expensive but realistically could be done and running for around $8K. a lot better than $10K just 2 years ago.$2K is one more set of tyres, or a new fuel set-up etc.

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just line length and possibly a few bulkhead fittings and line clamps/holders depending on how you were planning to do the boot set-up.

but yeah big size -12/-16 stainless covered teflon hose is not cheap (branded earls/speedflow stuff more than generic branded stuff) but it's the fittings that cost the most so saving is not that much. BUT for a road car it can be best to keep all that stuff isolated in the engine bay as dry sump tank in the boot makes for a pretty smelly car unless you vent it externally and seal everything very, very well.

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Same GTR I've just done a big fuel system for 2k (parts)with Teflon lines, fittings and a 1600hp Weldon pump so yeah your right.

Earls/speedflow etc don't do Teflon hose any larger than

-8. Anything larger is a rubber/stainless braid covering.

The only company doing any decent Teflon hose in -8+ is fragola. But that hose requires fragola fittings which are decent.

-16 hose is $98/m retail. I think I supplied it for $49.00 or so.

-12 is $78 retail I think.

One of the GTR's I've just lined up used 6.5m of -16, 4m of -12 and some offcut -10 for a few breathers.

Another car I'm doing currently I have fabricated a custom tank that suits the inner passengers wheel arch and has a filler that sits behind the headlight.

It is hard to use a nice shaped tank without hacking the car apart so the pump requires a de aeration manifold to work properly.

But -16 hose is down to 2m

The manifold costs up to $350 though.....

I'll post up a few plumbing diagrams I have of various setups so people can get an idea of the shear amount of fittings required.

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yeah it's the fittings that's the killer.

i've only personally ever bought and used earls stuff (they give good trade discount) but have used speedflow and a few others on other peoples cars.

i've seen a little bit of generic stuff around but mostly because it had problems (sometimes just cosmetic like annodising coming off, but sometimes leaks etc too). have you ever used any generic stuff? most i've seen was crap but it's possible it's better now? it's certainly fking cheap.

any experience with these guys? they do teflon lines up to -12. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/index.php?cPath=302&osCsid=420af8f14d05058858d3910d7c3cfb87

at $16 per metre for -12 teflon line in stainless sheath that's cheap. and the fittings are cheap too. I'm tempted to buy a few and play with them. it has potential to knock a fair bit off the fittings bill but no point if they are rubbish.

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Same GTR I've just done a big fuel system for 2k (parts)with Teflon lines, fittings and a 1600hp Weldon pump so yeah your right.

Earls/speedflow etc don't do Teflon hose any larger than

-8. Anything larger is a rubber/stainless braid covering.

The only company doing any decent Teflon hose in -8+ is fragola. But that hose requires fragola fittings which are decent.

-16 hose is $98/m retail. I think I supplied it for $49.00 or so.

-12 is $78 retail I think.

One of the GTR's I've just lined up used 6.5m of -16, 4m of -12 and some offcut -10 for a few breathers.

Another car I'm doing currently I have fabricated a custom tank that suits the inner passengers wheel arch and has a filler that sits behind the headlight.

It is hard to use a nice shaped tank without hacking the car apart so the pump requires a de aeration manifold to work properly.

But -16 hose is down to 2m

The manifold costs up to $350 though.....

I'll post up a few plumbing diagrams I have of various setups so people can get an idea of the shear amount of fittings required.

Don't forget me Brad :)

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  • 1 month later...

I actually was asked to line a car up last week with that gear. It all went onto eBay and earls stuff was purchased.

The olives were average, the threads inside the fittings were inconsistent and the tapered sealing surface had pitted anodizing on some fittings.

The hose did seem okay but I wouldn't use it with earls fittings, better off with their hose and hose ends.

I did actually have a few damaged earls fittings earlier this week too. Gouges in the locking nuts and some loose locating pins on the swivel seal end.

The service was flawless. Phoned steve, he drove into Silverwater, grabbed the fittings and had them out to me an hour latter. Won't get that kind of service from china or eBay.

yeah it's the fittings that's the killer.

i've only personally ever bought and used earls stuff (they give good trade discount) but have used speedflow and a few others on other peoples cars.

i've seen a little bit of generic stuff around but mostly because it had problems (sometimes just cosmetic like annodising coming off, but sometimes leaks etc too). have you ever used any generic stuff? most i've seen was crap but it's possible it's better now? it's certainly fking cheap.

any experience with these guys? they do teflon lines up to -12. http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/index.php?cPath=302&osCsid=420af8f14d05058858d3910d7c3cfb87

at $16 per metre for -12 teflon line in stainless sheath that's cheap. and the fittings are cheap too. I'm tempted to buy a few and play with them. it has potential to knock a fair bit off the fittings bill but no point if they are rubbish.

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I looked at that stuff a while back, from what I recall the hose o/d was different (smaller) than the earls stuff, so didnt want to risk local fittings not fitting

EDIT - i WILL AD THAT THEIR WATER TO AIR INTERCOOLER STUFF IS AWESOME THOUGH

fkn caps lock

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