Jump to content
SAU Community

Lewis Engine 2.2 Stroker Rb20

eightsixboy
 Share

Recommended Posts

N1 RB26 Contributor

N1 RB26

Posted
Posted

the ride was fine at 335 it was nice to drive it was only rough as guts when i had it sitting at 310 but i didn't mind even though you did lose a kidney everytime you went over a bump lol but it stuck to the road like glue which was fun :D

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

the ride was fine at 335 it was nice to drive it was only rough as guts when i had it sitting at 310 but i didn't mind even though you did lose a kidney everytime you went over a bump lol but it stuck to the road like glue which was fun :D

It would have handled better at 335 or stock height. I don't know why people think stiff suspension = better handling.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

When I got my 32 it was on its' balls and it was horrible and scraping everything got mighty annoying! Raised it up to how it is below and haven't looked back! Handles soooo much better and doesn't scrape anything :D

DSC01942b.jpg

N1 RB26 Contributor

N1 RB26

Posted
Posted

It would have handled better at 335 or stock height. I don't know why people think stiff suspension = better handling.

your right in a sense but cause it was sitting so low you need the stiffer suspension to compensate to avoid bottoming out...stiffer suspension over stock does get you better handling but not at the stock height. by lowering the car you give it a lower centre of gravity and a better roll centre for weight transfer going through sharp bends with quick directional changes. so what you said is true stiffer suspension doesn't = better handling, but it does when all the suspension is working together and is all proportionate to the car and the tracks you intend to drive it on. don't forget by having stiffer suspension you get better response in the steering as well as being in control of squatting and diving under hard acceleration and braking, but if you hit a couple bumps and it's super stiff you lose traction so it's not always a good thing it all has to be in balance :thumbsup: but it didn't handle better at 335 cause it didn't have stiff enough springs had way too much body roll for that ride height

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

your right in a sense but cause it was sitting so low you need the stiffer suspension to compensate to avoid bottoming out...stiffer suspension over stock does get you better handling but not at the stock height. by lowering the car you give it a lower centre of gravity and a better roll centre for weight transfer going through sharp bends with quick directional changes. so what you said is true stiffer suspension doesn't = better handling, but it does when all the suspension is working together and is all proportionate to the car and the tracks you intend to drive it on. don't forget by having stiffer suspension you get better response in the steering as well as being in control of squatting and diving under hard acceleration and braking, but if you hit a couple bumps and it's super stiff you lose traction so it's not always a good thing it all has to be in balance :thumbsup: but it didn't handle better at 335 cause it didn't have stiff enough springs had way too much body roll for that ride height

Actually by lowering it that much you f**k the roll centre as all the control arms are on weird angles causing all sorts of issues. Making it stiffer will just compound the problem by having a car that is far too stiff.

It will always handle worse at that ride height unless you modify the mounting of the arms and/or use roll centre adjusters. Any stiffer than 4kg springs will almost always give worse handling because when accelerating the car won't squat giving worse straight line acceleration as the wheels will spin, also any bumps you hit will cause a lose in traction as well. The only time you want stiffer than this is when you are running full slicks on a perfectly flat race track.

It would never have handled better at 335 unless you had roll center adjusters. Sydney Kid did some testing and found that at low heights there was actually positive camber gain on harsh bumps so lots of things go wrong when you mess with the suspension geometry this much.

if you want less body roll use sway bars to remove it, don't use stiffer springs, people always seem to mess this up for some reason.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Where did you get your brake caliper bracket from? My god it clocks the caliper around a hell of a lot

Came off a local race car here, it clocks it by exactly 15deg (I have drawn them up and played around with different sizes). They are for 296>324mm rotors and unless you machine the adapter out of a solid block (because the offset is so small) you have to rotate the caliper to get the clearances around the bolts.

Have not noticed any bad diving under brakes or anything like that.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...