Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I was purchasing a pod filter and asked what sprijngs he had. He said he has Apexi springs for a good price. i was looking to buy just rears because the front of my car is low and back is still stock I think. he had a look and said that all the springs were original. I was looking to buy rear spring from pedders but this guy has a good offer on Apexi full set. Are Apexi sports springs good. Should I cahnge the shocks? Car is used for every day driving. What do you recommend? Arent the stock suspension setup coil overs?

please give me a helping hand

JT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/
Share on other sites

No, the stock suspension does not consist of coilovers; just shocks and springs.

To paraphrase Sydneykid, Japanese suspension components are designed for Japanese conditions, not Australian conditions. Our rough roads need something different (Whiteline or King springs are used often).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-731880
Share on other sites

No, the stock suspension does not consist of coilovers; just shocks and springs.

To paraphrase Sydneykid, Japanese suspension components are designed for Japanese conditions, not Australian conditions. Our rough roads need something different (Whiteline or King springs are used often).

I think they have also been tested for US conditions which would also be similar to ours. They have alot of dealers in the US so this is something that should be kept in mind.

DOES anyone have Apexi Springs on there car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-731936
Share on other sites

I am in the process of getting some APEXi T-Max coilovers rebuilt. The springs that came with them (not sure if they were the originals) were VERY stiff, ie 550lbs front and 420lbs rear. I am currently getting the shocks rebuilt and the springs swapped for king spring versions, rated at 350lbs front and 200lbs rear. Check the spring rates before you buy, for a road car I don't think you would want much more than the kings that I am getting.

I have never heard anyone complain about the results from fitting king or whiteline springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-732122
Share on other sites

No, the stock suspension does not consist of coilovers; just shocks and springs.

To paraphrase Sydneykid, Japanese suspension components are designed for Japanese conditions, not Australian conditions. Our rough roads need something different (Whiteline or King springs are used often).

thats one way to look at it, another is japanese springs made for japanese cars. Would someone fit jap springs to a holden????

Spring rate will be the deciding factor, no matter who makes them.

I know guys that run 12kg springs front and 10 rear - they drive their cars hard and like the go kart feel in a car:)

Personally I find that japanese quality, generally, is as good as it gets (but to each their own). If you can get the jap springs at the right price and at the right rate - they are a good thing. They have after all been making springs for skylines alot longer than any aussie company.

If you are not interested in the Apex springs, or this guy has other sets at a good price, could you pm me details please (my springs need upgrading:p)

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-732283
Share on other sites

thats one way to look at it, another is japanese springs made for japanese cars.  Would someone fit jap springs to a holden????

Spring rate will be the deciding factor, no matter who makes them.  

I know guys that run 12kg springs front and 10 rear - they drive their cars hard and like the go kart feel in a car:)  

Personally I find that japanese quality, generally, is as good as it gets (but to each their own).  If you can get the jap springs at the right price and at the right rate - they are a good thing.  They have after all been making springs for skylines alot longer than any aussie company.

If you are not interested in the Apex springs, or this guy has other sets at a good price, could you pm me details please (my springs need upgrading:p)

Cheers

Steve

They are going for $275 the full set. at Hyper Tech in melbourne. Half price at the moment. I am not sure what rating they are but he said that they are not a bumpy ride and will be fine with my shocks. I will find out the rating. I think they 25mm lowrr at the front and 20mm at the back or something similar. My front is already pretty low and he said it will be about 5mm higher. So i think it should be OK. I will keep you posted if your interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-733369
Share on other sites

i reckon they wouldnt be too bad even though they are japanese since theyre just a spring i cant see them being super high rated coz theyre made to go on different ratings of shocks, even probably onto stock shocks like you have. though they would probably be a bit higher rated than australian stuff i can only assume.

guy should be able to get u the spring rates, they would be listed on the packaging somewhere i would image.

and how he said your car already has coilover suspension, i think he meant that technically speaking the car does have coilover suspension as it has a coil spring over a shock absorber. japanese coilovers are just height/damper adjustable coilover systems, as opposed to factory fitted spring/shock combo coilovers. but people have just come to know one-peice adjustable japanese coilovers as 'coilovers' and shocks and springs as shock & spring combos :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36667-springs-advise/#findComment-734263
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...