Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I changed my timing belt and water pump. It started up just fine, it eliminated that old sound my car was making. I let it idle for abit while I bled the air in the coolant. Then the revs started to lower from 1000 cold to the 650rpm warm level and it made this disgusting sound. What the hell? If I rev it the sound goes and it only comes when its idling.

I'm using the blue gates belt and brand new NSK bearings. Did I over tension the belt? f**king ass f**k I was so excited when it started up, it sounded so clean and smooth because my old bearings and belt were worn to the shit.

Also if the belt is too tight, can I remove the lower cover without taking the harmonic balancer off again? I really don't want to feel like I'm doing it all f**king again wow. I was able to push and pull the belt about 5 - 7mm each way on each length of belt with moderate force. I didn't tighten the thing ALL the way, it was kind of abit more than half way. I put the allen key in, relaxed it to neutral position then tensioned it up as tight as I could then released about 30% to 40% then tightened up the bolt.

Everything was torqued up to spec.

Edited by SargeRX8

Myself and a mate both have Gates Racing belts in our Ricelines and we get the same noise. We have narrowed it down to the following:

Over tensioned

Gates Racing belts are just noisy.

For the moment I CBF pulling it all apart just to check if it's over tensioned, but it is on my "to do" list

Myself and a mate both have Gates Racing belts in our Ricelines and we get the same noise. We have narrowed it down to the following:

Over tensioned

Gates Racing belts are just noisy.

For the moment I CBF pulling it all apart just to check if it's over tensioned, but it is on my "to do" list

Its a bit of both. The gates belts are known to be noisey when there newish and gradually over time as they wear in they get quieter. I dont have a gates belt but have heard of this being the case. Have a friend with a gates timing belt that makes the same noise. Still running fine.

Unless you recall it being a bit tighter then you think was right then it should be O.K

it sounds like its too tight. the belt should be able to move around 5mm in either direction or be able to be twisted 45 degrees max.

even if you could take the covers off without removing the balancer, do it anyway so you can triple check that you didnt accidentally miss a tooth.

turn the motor over two full revolutions before you put the final tension on the belt. put some tension on it while you're turning it over though, otherwise it may skip a tooth in the process.

EDIT: i had a gates belt and it wasnt noisy at all. if your belt is too tight it will cause the front cam/crank seals and bearings to wear much faster. its not something i would leave to fix later.

Edited by SECURITY

I'm not planning to leave it as it doesn't sound normal at all and the excess stress will only lead to faster wear and tear.fingers crossed I don't need to completely strip it. When we fit the belt on we done it there times to be 200% certain all three markings on the belt lined up with those on the engine and they did.i applied minor tension and turned the motor two times and noticed the markings changed their position so we took it off again and put it back on and the same thing happened. Then I said to my self that it will always do that because the crank gear is smaller than the rest. eventually after so many turns they will line up. it was more crucial the actual marks on the can gears and crank lined up and they did every time. Even the original belt was not lined up. Going to retension tomorrow. I'll reduce it until I can do the 45 degree twists with medium pressure.

Unfortunately the whole thing had to come apart bar the radiator. I could have done it yesterday without taking the radiator out but I changed the water pump so had to get as much coolant out of there.

Anyway, just let the car run for a few mins cold start and I can say there is almost absolutely no noise from the belt. No belt slapping indicating loose belt and no loud whirring. Lets see how it holds up when things get a little warm later.

And here are some tips for people who are going to do their belt:

You do NOT need to remove the radiator. Depending on your pulley puller, you should be fine. I made my own and it worked a treat without removing the rad.

Don't tension the water pump/alternator belt until you fit the clutch fan back on, if you do, good luck getting the pulley to sit flush.

Mark the belt on the outside with liquid paper for the initial setup, makes checking the markings a piece of piss.

Start applying the belt to the crank, left exhaust cam and then right intake cam; doesn't matter if you do right or left but do the bottom first!

Jack the car up if you are anything above 5ft tall, and if you are taller than 6ft, remove the f**king bonnet if you have to.

ive heard this from gates and otehr kevlar belts. Just meant to be the nature of them sometimes and often seems to disappear after a while.

I had the same thing on mine immidiately after replacement n took the top cam cover off. It was def not an over tightened belt. 3000km in it seems to have settled down.

not to say this is the case every time but gates/kevlar belts can be noisy like this. Def make sure it isnt too tight tho...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...