Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just wondering if some of you could point me towards some of the better online businesses I can buy parts from to build my own PC, or even let them build it, if they can do it cheap. I used to know a few but simple cant remember them and google keeps sending me to crap.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367344-building-a-gaming-pc/
Share on other sites

PCCG generally cost a little more than MSY

If you want to wait in a line (rather than online order), you can save yourself at least $100 if not more.

Depends on the parts you want as MSY dont stock a wide range, just a lot of the similar.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Getting a little lost and overwhelmed on what I should be buying. I pretty much want to run Battlefield 3, Diablo 3 and Skyrim all at high settings, with the ability to upgrade my PC in the future, and run any games that come out in the near future, even if that means playing them on lower settings.

Could I build a gaming tower capable of that for $1,500-2000? I've tried reading some articles but I get lost even doing that because most assume you already have a pretty good understanding of how a PC runs.

Thanks again.

I think the sandy bridge will remain at a similar price when the lga 2011 comes out later this year, but will drop significantly when the ivy bridge gets released next year.

But then again, I'm probably wrong anyway...

Prices will drop once the 6 series Nvidia stuff comes out and also when AMD's Bulldozer comes out in the next few months. And yeah go with PC Case Gear, they used to be a lot more expensive than MSY and CPL but they've become a lot more competitive in the last couple of years.

two on one boards are pointless, too hot and noisy, and the top end single cards in SLI / crossfire are faster anyway for the same price or less usually ;)

If upgrading from a POS now, go sandy bridge, otherwise wait for bulldozer / ivy bridge (mind you ivy bridge probably isn't until next year though!)

Apparently the difference between 2500K/2600K is SFA for games. If you use a lot of multi threaded apps, thats where you'll see a jump in performance.

Depends whether you care about the bragging rights of owning an i7 I guess.

Not sure about the i5 but all of this quadcore+ processor stuff is a bit useless atm with minimal programs making use of all of them. Remember when the dualcore was released?? Software and games took forever before starting to take advantage of the extra core.<BR><BR>That being said, I know most programs are capable of utilizing two cores so try buying a processor that has the turbocache feature; increasing frequency when only two of the four+ cores are being used.<BR><BR>And, for the record, Ivy Bridge is set for release March 2012. But the LGA-1366 successor, LGA-2011, is set for release later this year. I'm waiting for Ivy Bridge - by then it'll have full USB3.0 functionality (not semi like most motherboards on the market today) and PCIe 3.0. <BR><BR>EDIT - Only downfall would be video cards making use of the PCIe 3.0 capabilities - since theyre struggling to reach the limits of PCIe 2.0... but we'll see by this time next year anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...