Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found this info with a quick goggle search

Revlimit Motorsport (RMS)

Unit 3/ 38 Cohn St Carlisle 6101 (08) 9470 2444

- Link

- Autronic

- UTEC

- Motec

Maximum Motorsports (MMS)

66 Westchester Rd Malaga 6090 (08) 9249 7444

- Link

- Autronic

- Motec

- Unichip

- ECUTEK

Speedworks

4 Carbon Ct Osborne Park , WA 6017 (08) 9242-8888

(own 4WD hub dyno)

- Link

- Autronic

- Motec

- Power FC

- UTEC

- emanage

Race Torque

16 Action Pl Wangara 6065 (08) 9302 6388

- Link

- Autronic

- Motec

- ECUTEK

XSPEED

18 Zeta Crescent, O'Connor 6154

Parts : 08 9331 8088

Garage & Dyno : 08 9337 3288

- Link

- Autronic

- Motec

- Power FC

- emanage

Hyperdrive Motorsport

Unit 1/ 28 Vale St Malaga 6090 (08) 9209 3100

- Autronic

- Power FC

West Racing

Unit 5/ 6 O'Malley St Osborne Park 6017 (08) 9446 1913

- Motec

- Unichip

- Autronic

Tony Flood

9/ 91 -93 Kew St Welshpool 6106 (08) 9472 1800

- Motec

- Link

Intune Performance

1/15 Murphy st O Connor 6163 WA

0414 874 824

- Motec

- Xcede

- Autronic

- Link

- Haltech

- Motec

- Power FC

All Star Garage

Unit 3, 21 Vale Rd Malaga (08) 9248 7433

- Link

- Autronic

- Motec

- Power FC

- Verso

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367537-r32-gts4-tune/#findComment-5862462
Share on other sites

thanks everyone. sorry about posting in the wrong thread

i have a stock auto ecu running atm and a stock manual ecu spare. i was gonna swap them over but was told there will be no difference..

i will be installing a new clutch and light weight flywheel then a fmic then i will be looking at getting it tuned and the boost jacked up to 12psi.then shim the rear diff and some 75w-140

to get the box out will i have to drop both tailshafts?

what style clutch do you reccomend? cusion button or pucked

thanks for all the feedback

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367537-r32-gts4-tune/#findComment-5864100
Share on other sites

yeah i know all too well about marking tailshafts. my marks rubbed off at work one day and after looking at it for a while igot it back to where i thort it was originally, road tested and no vibrations , lucky.. now ive got a nice white pait marker.

how much for a chipt ecu, or aftermaket ecus?

car seems to hunt at idle sometimes, im thinking lazy o2 or vacuum leak

gonna go with the cusion button cos peak hour traffic is a bitch and planning on doing trak days but not to often.

what would happen if i ran those mods on the stock ecu with no tune?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367537-r32-gts4-tune/#findComment-5865746
Share on other sites

how much for a chipt ecu, or aftermaket ecus?

car seems to hunt at idle sometimes, im thinking lazy o2 or vacuum leak

what would happen if i ran those mods on the stock ecu with no tune?

RRP for a Type 2 NIStune board is about $260 delivered.

Hunting is probably a dirty airflow meter.

RB20 ECU's are pretty tolerant, with stock turbo mine handled 14psi without throwing a fit. It will just run rich and not make as much power as it could be making.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367537-r32-gts4-tune/#findComment-5865815
Share on other sites

Anything that doesn't leave a residue behind will work on the afm.

The Type-2 NIStune board suits R32GTSt/GTR (among others) and is a daughterboard that is plugged into the stock board (that is putting it simply). It gives you full tunability in realtime over the consult port :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367537-r32-gts4-tune/#findComment-5866290
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...