Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bud you contacted me on my want to buy post

Im guessing the reason you took so long to send the money and send the turbo back was your memory is bad... It all started with you so stop trying to make out it was my fault!!!

Sent 16 May 2011 - 07:04 PM

hey mate just wonering if youd sell the good turbo for $150 to victoria

The reason your getting flamed is quite simple... Your a idiot its not because you can't spell its because you are a scammer.

The whole thing was because you kept the turbo and would not respond in a reasonable time frame. If you think 4 months is reasonable IM sorry ill take back everything. You received my turbo which was in perfect working order that was taken off my skyline. You then said it would not fit because it was not standard, you then said your mechanic said it would not fit which to me sounds like both you don't know what you are talking about and when that failed you claimed there was a oil leak. All this time I did not argue with you even though the "not fitting" thing was a total load of bullshit, you then said it had a crack in the oil line and you were not happy with it. You received a refund within 5 hours with no complaining and with several apologies for the inconvenience in the mean time. You were the reason this went down the drain and ended up viral on the internet. Not because of me it was because of you I did everything on my end to ensure it went smoothly, If I sent it faulty do you really think I would agree and send the money back so quick?!?

In the end your reputation as a skyline owner has ended in tatters with no one on sau ever going to do business with you again and infact everyone here has actually got a bit of laughter out of it with your stupid non grammered comments. On receiving the turbo back its clear you did not look after it and in my professional opinion as a refrigeration mechanic who deals with welding, holes and abrasions on refrigeration piping the hole in the oil line was clearly created by bad handling probably from being tampered with in a attempt to keep it claiming it was faulty before realizing your dealings with me have ended up on the internet.

At the end of the day you have lost and I can guarantee karma will get the better of you in one way or another for the way you have treated me.

Thank you for wasting my and everyone elses time and i thank everyone on sau for your ongoing support. RYAN LOWE if you do continue to dig yourself a hole i am more then happy to provide chat logs and pics from both sau and my phone for you to use as a shovel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367999-tranf4m/page/5/#findComment-6037582
Share on other sites

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im guessing the reason you took so long to send the money and send the turbo back was your memory is bad... It all started with you so stop trying to make out it was my fault!!!

Sent 16 May 2011 - 07:04 PM

hey mate just wonering if youd sell the good turbo for $150 to victoria

The reason your getting flamed is quite simple... Your a idiot its not because you can't spell its because you are a scammer.

The whole thing was because you kept the turbo and would not respond in a reasonable time frame. If you think 4 months is reasonable IM sorry ill take back everything. You received my turbo which was in perfect working order that was taken off my skyline. You then said it would not fit because it was not standard, you then said your mechanic said it would not fit which to me sounds like both you don't know what you are talking about and when that failed you claimed there was a oil leak. All this time I did not argue with you even though the "not fitting" thing was a total load of bullshit, you then said it had a crack in the oil line and you were not happy with it. You received a refund within 5 hours with no complaining and with several apologies for the inconvenience in the mean time. You were the reason this went down the drain and ended up viral on the internet. Not because of me it was because of you I did everything on my end to ensure it went smoothly, If I sent it faulty do you really think I would agree and send the money back so quick?!?

In the end your reputation as a skyline owner has ended in tatters with no one on sau ever going to do business with you again and infact everyone here has actually got a bit of laughter out of it with your stupid non grammered comments. On receiving the turbo back its clear you did not look after it and in my professional opinion as a refrigeration mechanic who deals with welding, holes and abrasions on refrigeration piping the hole in the oil line was clearly created by bad handling probably from being tampered with in a attempt to keep it claiming it was faulty before realizing your dealings with me have ended up on the internet.

At the end of the day you have lost and I can guarantee karma will get the better of you in one way or another for the way you have treated me.

Thank you for wasting my and everyone elses time and i thank everyone on sau for your ongoing support. RYAN LOWE if you do continue to dig yourself a hole i am more then happy to provide chat logs and pics from both sau and my phone for you to use as a shovel.

Are you even sure its YOUR turbo he sent back to you? Wouldn't be surprised with this douchelord if he still has your turbo and sent you back his dodgy one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367999-tranf4m/page/5/#findComment-6037597
Share on other sites

I said a hip, hop a hippy a hippy to the hip hip hop you dont stop a rockin to the bang bang boogy said up jump the boogy to the riddim of the boogity beat.

loookseei eyes kan tork lyke tranzgender tu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367999-tranf4m/page/5/#findComment-6037749
Share on other sites

couldnt give to f**ks what ya do.

Im guessing the reason you took so long to send the money and send the turbo back was your memory is bad... It all started with you so stop trying to make out it was my fault!!!

Sent 16 May 2011 - 07:04 PM

hey mate just wonering if youd sell the good turbo for $150 to victoria

The reason your getting flamed is quite simple... Your a idiot its not because you can't spell its because you are a scammer.

The whole thing was because you kept the turbo and would not respond in a reasonable time frame. If you think 4 months is reasonable IM sorry ill take back everything. You received my turbo which was in perfect working order that was taken off my skyline. You then said it would not fit because it was not standard, you then said your mechanic said it would not fit which to me sounds like both you don't know what you are talking about and when that failed you claimed there was a oil leak. All this time I did not argue with you even though the "not fitting" thing was a total load of bullshit, you then said it had a crack in the oil line and you were not happy with it. You received a refund within 5 hours with no complaining and with several apologies for the inconvenience in the mean time. You were the reason this went down the drain and ended up viral on the internet. Not because of me it was because of you I did everything on my end to ensure it went smoothly, If I sent it faulty do you really think I would agree and send the money back so quick?!?

In the end your reputation as a skyline owner has ended in tatters with no one on sau ever going to do business with you again and infact everyone here has actually got a bit of laughter out of it with your stupid non grammered comments. On receiving the turbo back its clear you did not look after it and in my professional opinion as a refrigeration mechanic who deals with welding, holes and abrasions on refrigeration piping the hole in the oil line was clearly created by bad handling probably from being tampered with in a attempt to keep it claiming it was faulty before realizing your dealings with me have ended up on the internet.

At the end of the day you have lost and I can guarantee karma will get the better of you in one way or another for the way you have treated me.

Thank you for wasting my and everyone elses time and i thank everyone on sau for your ongoing support. RYAN LOWE if you do continue to dig yourself a hole i am more then happy to provide chat logs and pics from both sau and my phone for you to use as a shovel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367999-tranf4m/page/5/#findComment-6040959
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...