Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was exiting out of my mate’s apartment basement car park at Wolli Creek the other day, it has a really steep (30 degree?) and tightly curved sloped driveway which also happened to have a little pool of water at the bottom flat portion of the drive. Now my mate in his stock Lexus IS200 went up this drive as easy as a snake sliding up a fence. Following him, I got like 1-2 car lengths up the drive and couldn’t go further – so much excessive wheelspin and could smell the tyre burning (thought it was the clutch at first).. 3-4 attempts and no luck. I even pulled up the handbrake on the slope, gave it some revs, then dumped the clutch normally, while putting the handbrake down, and still wheelspin at 3,4,5,6k rpms…

Got my mate and another guy to sit in the backseat to get better traction and we only JUST managed to crawl up in centimetres, wheelspinning as before, after the second traction we went up the slope easily, just at the bottom curved bit which was also wet.. My R34GTT has quite firm rear Cusco adjustable coilovers and the front end is a noticeable bit lower than the rear – same Cuscos in front.

My other mate with his stock Nissan Tiida who lives on the block never had this issue before.. So you can imagine them both ribbing me about how my high performance turbo car couldn’t get up that ridiculous driveway when their shopping trolley rides slide up and down like pros.

Anyone got any suggestions as to whats wrong with me not getting traction – hard suspension, front bit lower than rear?? – my tyres are really good – 235/18s, my traction control dosen’t work though, the light in dash is always off.

Maybe I was revving too much, but still? The lexus is a manual and I do know how to drive haha so thats not the issue, I even thought my car is pulling too much torque at low revs causing the wheelspin, but then a lot of you guys are pulling waaay bigger numbers than me and I've never heard of anyone bring up an issue like this..

Your skyline has way more torque than those other cars.

For a steep hill/driveway ( AND WET!!! ) you would need to ride the clutch quite a bit or like you did handbrake start, but dont rev it so high, creep it.

More power = more wheelspin, keep the revs down low, 1-2k range.

Edited by jay-rod

Dunno mate, bought it like that, that was the only thing in my car that dosent work, thats why its pretty dangerous in the wet, even driving it normally, wheelspins very easily, it does have the 2nd traction control butterfly in the intake though, I think either the unit is fuct or the fuse is blown..Anyways I am pulling a kinda healthy 545Nm torque on the stock turbo, tuned to awesomeness by DVS Jez on SAU

My question is - what happened to your traction control system? Anytime I've been in that situation, traction control would kick in and make it fine.

As far as i know Traction control does not stop both tyres from spinning after they have started.

It only stop loss of traction from the beggning.

So if he floored it, traction control can only do so much.

But yes no TCS would not help either :P

Edited by jay-rod

I did strongly think its my stiff suspension, but my tuner said my suspension is beautiful compared to the really hard race-type suspension that he is used to... Could be that my low rpm torque is a bit much for that slippery steep slope..?? The IS200 also a rear wheel drive, didnt have any issue at all, and niether my other mates Tiida - which would have more traction as its a front-wheel drive with the heavy engine in front?

I always thought the R34 has a good front-rear weight distribution although not as good as a mid-engine mounted car, so thought how the hell is the weight distribution causing this issue or is it something else..

I did strongly think its my stiff suspension, but my tuner said my suspension is beautiful compared to the really hard race-type suspension that he is used to... Could be that my low rpm torque is a bit much for that slippery steep slope..?? The IS200 also a rear wheel drive, didnt have any issue at all, and niether my other mates Tiida - which would have more traction as its a front-wheel drive with the heavy engine in front?

i just think you gave it to much throttle.

Have you checked all your fuses? The traction control not working could simply be the previous owner taking the fuse out or it could have blown?

*Edit - If problem persists buy a GTR :happy:

Edited by r32line

Anyone else had this problem? Nobody thinks its my stiff suspension and heavy engine in the front = less grip? I must say its very easy to wheelspin in this car, even in the dry straight roads, when coming on boost suddenly..

Doesn't the traction control system in R34s cut power by closing the throttle body? If this is the case might be able to get up the driveway if you use more delicate throttle control... or no throttle at all

To be honest, I'm thinking either diff or tyres (or a combination of the two). You definitely won't be going anywhere if you are single spinning... I remember trying to drive my cousin's Commodore onto my lawn and I got stuck because all it could do was peg leg!

Stiff springs on the rear end is probably a contributing factor but not the cause

Yeah sounds like you're just giving it too much. Only time I ever had similar in my old 33 was when I had bald tyres, with good tyres you should be able to just take it easy and slip the clutch a little.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...