Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't thnk the traction control would help if anything it would make it worse.

In my R34 when the TCS kicks in it cuts power for a good second or so. So if it happened whilst he was on a steep driveay he wild just be sliding down slowly down the driveway :)

I only gave it some AFTER goin up a car length from flat area, then it started wheelspinning and not goin up, so i freak out n apply more gas hehe- and effectively doin a burnout!

Driving style in my opinion.

You didn't think to try get a slow roll happening before you hit the driveway?

& also did you try letting the clutch out with no throttle, getting a tiny little roll-on, or at least loading the driveline, then gently accelerating?

545nm, a wet 30 degree slope and no traction control. Yep, that'd do it.

+1

Did you try getting a little headstart? Reversing back then going at it hard?

"Get a bigger hammer" comes to mind..

Maybe you got a point, WLSPN, you could be right, I didn,t do those things, to the guy below you, VONCINA, ha ha yeah I tried that of course, all I got was massive wheelspin and burning rubber lol...

sounds like driving style is playing a bit of a part in it, and the stiff suspension may be playing a part if it isn't a smooth transition from flat to steep, mainly if you have to take it at an angle as the inside wheel probably has bugger all weight on it. a mate of mine had a ceffy where if you jacked up a front wheel the rear wheel on the same side would come off the ground it was so stiff.

was it spinning both wheels, or just one? if both then it is a diff issue as it isn't engaging the LSD. not saying that the diff is shagged, but it is worn.

to be honest, the tida should've had the most problems going up being fwd. all the weight would be over the rear wheels and the front wheels would be light. there is one intersection in town on a steep hill and if you try to take of with any sort of haste in a fwd it will spin the wheels. in a rwd car you can take off fast easily.

my advice would be to simply idle up it with bugger all throttle. keeping it off boost will drastically reduce the chance of wheelspin and it will be putting out much less torque than the lexus would be. if it still whelspins then it is your suspension and your diff.

If you were trying to go up slowly, then its not rpm or torque, because you regulate that with the clutch. Still suspension will definitely be a problem, as it will significantly un-weight one wheel, in which case you really need a working LSD to get any forward movement.

Any idea if both wheels were spinning or just one?

Don't know about that, my mate who was outside watching pointed out that the left rear wheel (outside of the curved driveway) was spinning but that was because he couldnt see the right inner wheel from his standpoint. I dont think its the diff/LSD because my car had straightened itself up on the straight part of the terrible slope and then wheelspinning like crazy. Which means both rear wheels getting equal grip at that time..

By the way my turbo kicks in around 2500rpm when it sees positive boost psi, by 2800-3000rpms it is at 12psi. Around 2500-3000rpms is what I would have been doing going up the slope after it started losing traction completely.... I would have driven in at 2-2500, it slipped, and then gone to 3000rpms and up to keep it from rolling back - but it never rolled back,. With the handbrake on and the car angled up the slope, I let the clutch out normally and throttle would have been 2500 and up - and massive wheelspin without movement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...