Jump to content
SAU Community

02 Sensor Plug Burnt Car Wont Start

chrisdicko23
 Share

Recommended Posts

chrisdicko23 Community Regular

chrisdicko23

Posted
Posted

I was changing the dump pipr on my 33 gtst( stock)

and forgot to strap in the o2 sensor plug and it melted through on the turbo

car now wont start, iv tried new plugs, no o2 sensor.

Any help would be good cheers

can the car start and idle with no o2 sensor?( no driving though dw)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368945-02-sensor-plug-burnt-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

I was changing the dump pipr on my 33 gtst( stock)

and forgot to strap in the o2 sensor plug and it melted through on the turbo

car now wont start, iv tried new plugs, no o2 sensor.

Any help would be good cheers

can the car start and idle with no o2 sensor?( no driving though dw)

yes, yes it can. will just run a bit richer at light load (instead of the AFRs being around 15:1 it will be about 12:1). at heavier throttle % then it won't be any different as the ecu ignores it anyway

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

Just rewire it mate. Easy as. P.s I disconnected the O2 wire from my stock computer and my pfc and the car stalled both times. What does that tell you?

it tells me you disconnected something the ecu actually needs, like the cas. as nismoid said the o2 sensor is not needed for the car to run and drive. its a fuel saving device and it only used when cruising along at a constant throttle

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Get the wiring diagram and start looking for where the common power feeds are to see what you've shorted out. It is pretty clear that when the wiring melted on the exhaust that a big bad electrical failure happened. It doesn't take a rocket surgeon to work that out.

Room42 Proficient

Room42

Posted
Posted

it tells me you disconnected something the ecu actually needs, like the cas. as nismoid said the o2 sensor is not needed for the car to run and drive. its a fuel saving device and it only used when cruising along at a constant throttle

Haha probably aye. Actually now that I think about it, it was the wrong wire. Dur... I remember that I unplugged the wrong wire and it didn't run and then realized and got the right wire (the clear one). My bad :whistling:

chrisdicko23 Community Regular

chrisdicko23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys in a bit of a pickle!

Was driving the other day and car just cut out on me and wouldnt start. I then looked under the hood and saw that i melted my o2 senssor wires onto the turbo manifold and that appeared to be the problem until i disconected it and tried starting with no o2 seonsor and got nothing. Next i took off the fuel lines into the engine and turned ignition on and found no petrol pumping or any sort of prime noise! So i took the fuel pump out and stuck it directly into the engine and ran it manually and the car started and reved up. So i assumed i had stuffed one of my relays to the fuel pump. To my understanding it is either both or one of the one behind the ecu in pass kick panel and in boot to the right of fuel pump fuse. They appeared to work fine after testing. Next i tried looking at the pump control unit and found no burns on the board but am not sure if there would be from 12 v? So not sure if thats working or not. Also i ear there is a ballist resistor connectin to the fuel pump in the boot which i have not yet looked at but am not sure what its duty is and if it can actually short circuit?

Need help!

Oh and also tried a mates ecu and nothing. So inconclusion there is no power on the wires on top of the fuel lid

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

had this exact same thing happen before... O2 sensor wirings have 12V power and signal wires/ground going to ecu... if you short them together it WILL fry the ecu.

lucky for me i fried an injector driver for cyln 5 on the circuit board so it still ran on 5 cylns... i was able to un solder the fried driver and replace it.

chrisdicko23 Community Regular

chrisdicko23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like it depends what sort of shorting happens as to whether it frys the whole board or just a certain thing. It could also be in safe mode. But i noticed power to the fuel pump after i put a direct negative to the relay in the boot at the pump started to prime.. I then took it off and it still primed for another second or so and since that direct negative its been working without my direct negative but using the ecu to turn it on again! No idea why?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

The ECU has a -ve trigger for the fuel pump. On shorting the O2 you must have fried a common point somewhere.

Try using a multimeter and testing the fuel pump trigger on the ecu (-ve output), it will stay on for a few seconds if the motor doesn't kick over.

Work from there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...