Forged Rb20

[Driftnuttz]

I did forget about the injectors, 440cc 7mgte supra injectors for 100.

[N1 RB26]

they seem all really good prices for what your getting except the engine mounts considering i only paid 50 bucks for new set here in aus...

and rolls you don't need stock wheels to get through regency i went through with my keiichi tsuchiya modia's 17x8 on front 17x9's on the rear as long as your on track or under your fine... mine were even sticking the slightest bit out the guard and i only mean just but i got away with it hehe

[zebra]

I did forget about the injectors, 440cc 7mgte supra injectors for 100.

You are doing all this head work and talking about cams for response etc...but you want to run a hx35 truck turbo and the cast manifold?

why?

To the OP.

While I love doing things different, there is a reason why many people say stay away from building the RB20,

Hell even Roy who loves his RB20 to bits and i'm sure he sleeps curled up on the cam covers he hasnt pulled his out and built it. The reason being is that for the max 300rwkws that a 20 head will make the standard rods and slugs are perfectly fine.

If you are concerned about the engine being a little tired than just throw some new rings and bearings in it, a good oil pump and be done.

Total cost if you cant do it yourself would be 1500 bucks, and will live for 5+ years if you look after it.

[Driftnuttz]

You are doing all this head work and talking about cams for response etc...but you want to run a hx35 truck turbo and the cast manifold.

Consider what the bump in compression is going to do to the response. I have shaved about .050 off the head, this should give me about 9.2-1. I have the 8 blade hx35 so it spools faster then the 7, and am getting a 3 angle valve job. It may not have the best response, but I think 7psi at a hair over 3k is posible. On 7psi I should be in the 300whp range. I will take that all day long.......

[Rolls]

and rolls you don't need stock wheels to get through regency i went through with my keiichi tsuchiya modia's 17x8 on front 17x9's on the rear as long as your on track or under your fine... mine were even sticking the slightest bit out the guard and i only mean just but i got away with it hehe

You are right, the issue is 95% of peoples rims are over track or the offest it wrong, also people put mismatched skinny tyres etc etc on them. Much easier to just keep a set of stockies for regency trips.

[N1 RB26]

yeah true what's hilarious is mine had the rolled tires on as well and looked exactly as it does in my avatar it looked like a total boy racer car lol and i should note i also had my 5'' cannon on the back and tinted rear indicators it looked like a total hoon drift car but it all got through haha

[Driftnuttz]

I got the head back and started woring on it. I also put in for some arp studs.

I have almost finished on the ex side. All I did was remove the bump caused by the stud and smooth everything out. Going to do a little more to the in side, but not a whole lot. Mainly clean up, but I do plan on softening the splitter in the port. I will try to get pics up as soon as I can.

[Driftnuttz]

New seats

Exhaust

Start to the intake side

Unported intake port

[Rolls]

Are you planning to flow test this? What sort of gains have been seen from similar porting?

[Driftnuttz]

No flow testing, I just dont have the time or money to get it tested. I have had a few guys looking at the head, from what they have said I should see a pump across the power band and a slightly faster spool. This is based on only making the splitter on the intake side a little smaller, and removing a little from around the exhaust valve stem and the stud hump. Both sides get a smoothing out. I dont think I will see big gains from this, but I should see some. I think I will see 7psi (hx35) at just over 3k, and 15psi at just over 4k. Thats 4500rpms at full low boost and 3500rpms at 15psi. I am thinking about 22psi, but want to get this thing going good on 7-15 first. I dont want to push it too soon.