Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if I can machine a HKS3037 Pro S cartridge into the housings? i went to per4manz in perth he recommended me the CHRA 700177-12, i was thinking of buying the cartridge from ATP from the states but they only offer these ones :

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R&Category_Code=

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R-WG-C10&Category_Code=

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=CHRA-GT3076R-WG&Category_Code=

any help would be great guys because im not sure which one to buy

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/
Share on other sites

Time to sell and upgrade IMO.

The existing housings would need to be machined to fit. Even if there is enough meat in the housings I think it would be a highly compromised setup.

By the time you sell your very in demand turbo kit you will be well on the way to paying for a new fitted GT3076.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886397
Share on other sites

No you can't really machine out those HKS GT"2835" Pro S housings .

Interestingly HKS used the same turbine housing castings in 0.68 and 0.87 A/Rs but they offset the housing in the Lathe to do the GT3037 version because the full sized GT30 turbine has a larger exducer diameter and would have broken into the waste gates outlet flow path .

With port shrouded compressor housings the radial slot is machined to suit the height of the lower or splitter blades leading edges and most wheels are different .

The thing people used to do to get a bit more out of a GT2835 Pro S was to use the larger 0.87 A/R turbine housing if they didn't already have one .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886739
Share on other sites

oh right, so pretty much disco i can't use any of the above CHRA's at all? cause my turbo builder said he could machine out the housings a little bit to suit the 700177-12 GT3076r CHRA but I had a read of your other thread and found that that is not the real GT3076r or something...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5886791
Share on other sites

I may have missed it but what sort of power are you making and what are you looking for ?

I would have thought a 2835 Pro S would've made quite reasonable squirt though they may lose you the bit right down low .

I think you're at point where changing turbos could be expensive and maybe other upgrades like say better cams could help a bit .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887342
Share on other sites

hmmm well my cartridge is blown thats why im looking at upgrades disco...but i don't wnana buy a brand new turbo, so i was thinking get a 3076 cartridge and machine it in there cause it'd be the cheaper option machining will cost me from 100-200 and if i can get a 3076 cartridge from ATP for 870 its not too bad although i have been looking at KAMAK turbo's but thats too much messing around... the 2835 Pro S is good but im chasing more power lol somewhere in the 400+ ish hp, so disco in your opinion is the 700177-12 cartridge good for 400?

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887412
Share on other sites

You should be able to get the -3 cartridge I mentioned above locally for around $1100 if you ask nicely. My new cartridge was installed for that price by MTQ in Sydney after a friendly arm wrestle.

ATP cartridge will need to add shipping which should still come under $1000 but still worth considering buying locally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5887455
Share on other sites

Some mobs can rebuild Garrett GT BB cartridges and the economics revolve around whats worn or bent/broken .

The things that ae expensive are new turbines if the blades are amaged or the piston ring has eaten into its groove . When there is piston ring damage to the back of the turbine wheels hub you often find it in the same part of the cartridges bearing housing and its not economic to change both .

Buying locally usually costs a bit more but if the new item has issues getting exchanges can be more complicatede from OS .

New std cartridge is the way to go I think , if your heart is set on 300 Kw sell the 2835 and buy a GT3076R .

A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5888552
Share on other sites

Cartridge number 700177-12 is a GT30 turbine based one but with the 7/7 bladed compressor wheel in 56 trim .

It is not part of the HKS range of Garrett GT BB turbos/cartridges which includes the better version of that -12 cartridge from the 56 trim GT3037/GT3076r which is 700177-7 .

To confirm the GT2835 56T HKS turbos use cartridge number 700177-3 according to my lists/notes .

It should be in that list I posted some years back of most of the GT30 BB turbo family .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5889052
Share on other sites

oh right mmm cause according to your notes disco....

the 700177-3 is the 700382-0003 , 700177-0003 , 03) 2835 56T , 56.6mm 84T with .64 a/r

and from the ATP website the

700177-5003 CHRA - Garrett GT3071R-WG with 84 trim 56.5mm turbine wheel and 71mm 56 trim compressor wheel is same cartrdige?

I just need confirmation before i place the order

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369238-hks-2835-pro-s/#findComment-5889072
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...