Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine is tapped for both t3 and t4, so if yours is the same then it would also have enough meat on it for this [a lot are already tapped for both, but some stood behind the door and so are only either t3 or t4]. Setting up for both flanges is a simple job, any machine shop could do it in a couple of hours and if you have your own tap and ie set you could do it yoursef pretty easy. They are one of the best flowing manifolds you can use and $500 is a good price..

GL with sale

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i wouldn't have a clue how it would compare with a 6boost. but car makes 355hp on 15psi with a 3076 which seems to be slightly more then SOME cars with same setups on 16-17psi.

yeah ill leave it wrapped, and include the screamer pipe (its wrapped together with it)

im just still not 100% as a true twin scroll has 123 cylinders into on side of the turbo flange and 456 into the other where this looks different i need to be 100% as if its not a true twin scroll like a 6 boost for instance then it defeats the purpose of me having a twin scroll turbo

im just still not 100% as a true twin scroll has 123 cylinders into on side of the turbo flange and 456 into the other where this looks different i need to be 100% as if its not a true twin scroll like a 6 boost for instance then it defeats the purpose of me having a twin scroll turbo

I used to own one of these, and there is internal casting that does separate the two sides from each other from memory. A photo of the outlet can confirm.

are you able to put up a pic of the flange i

Even the stock rb25 manifold are divided on the flange but its not a true twin scroll tho

1 1/2 of the flange needs to be from 123 cylinders and the other half the rest

yea its not a true twin judging from the pics if found 1 and 2 merge into the 3rd cylinder where true twin scroll are all separate till they meet the turbo flange

other than thread crap, why not just ask or do some research. The internal diameter of the pipes grow in diameter where the last meet the next, which dont cause an issue. They have been designed to work, and do. If you are not happy with them, dont comment here, its a for sale thread.

im just trying to make sure its twin scroll 100% before i make my purchase from him, I was hoping alot of people with knowledge would comment on this thread, Ive done research and searched alot and from what ive found its not a true twin scroll so it defeats the purpose of having a twin scroll turbo its on the basis of a stock manifold just better flow

all cylinders need to meet into into where the flange is for a twin scroll turbo to be affective im guessing these manifold are designed for a old style t4 flange turbo before twin scroll rear housing where used

It is a twin scroll but does not feature a single merge collector for all runners.

You can't compare a HKS manifold to a simple log style as it sits somewhere between the two types in its design as the runners are blended far better than a basic log. It has shorter runners than a 6Boost which may be helpful for better boost response but who knows how much better?!?!

Last I checked 6Boost are not exactly equal length (although they are close), as Kyle has stated that as long as you are close enough it makes almost no difference.

For a twin scroll to work you need to separate the front 3 cylinders from the rear 3 which the HKS manifold does for both the turbo outlet and wastegate port.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...