Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Goodafternoon fellas',

Im having some issues with my car, before i go on, i would just like to say that my car standard apart from:

- Front pipes

- Hi-flo metal cat

- Apexi cat back

- K&N Pods apexi intake

Now my problem is, my car isn't lacking power, but it just chews fuel and i mean $50 petrol and im lucky to get 200kms if i drive like a granny possibly 250km. Now something can't be right? Is this just a normal occurance with GTRs? I've read on here that people get way better fuel economy. The car is due for service in another 500kms so looking at changing sparkies, oil, oil filter ect.

I've done my search, but nothing really hits the nail on head with my case. When the car got here, it was 100% stock except for the Apexi catback, Stock airbox front pipes ect ect.

Really would appreciate any feedback advice, and or whatever. Seeing as the car is my daily for the meanwhile its smashing me sick in the wallet.

Thanks guys.

If the O2s are the same ones from factory I would change them, then give the AFMs a good clean too. While you're at it, tighten up all your FMIC piping hoses, etc.

im getting 15l/100 on mine. have changed the o2 sensors as well. i do alot of around town driving though

Thats decent, mine works out to be 16.5l/100. Thats mixed driving; freeway and in and out of the suburbs.

$50 of 98 isnt that much these days, 200km from that isnt that bad.

i managed to get under 300km out of a full tank once.

get a new ecu for it (nistune, pfc etc...) and youll be able to tune it for much better economy

has the fuel economy gotten worse ? or have u just got the car and expected it to be better?

gtr's CHEW the fuel dude

Hrmm i dunno bro, I mean i've owned that car since last year August. I never remembered it being this bad. I mean it was thirsty but now its just stupid. It is kinda standard after all, expected it would be better :S?

I guess what im trying to ask is there anything i can do to, increase fuel economy?

$50 of 98 isnt that much these days, 200km from that isnt that bad.

i managed to get under 300km out of a full tank once.

Lol, but is it normal to say go from 4th to 2nd to say overtake then stretch the gear a bit, and once your in 5th cruisng you look at the petrol needle and see that it has drop? haha

plenty of factors to consider when looking at fuel economy. generally only use others economy as a rough guide as there are so many variables. here's a list of things to consider:

- do you let the car idle to warm up? (an idling car will use a few litres per hour)

- how long does the car take to warm up? (if more than a few mins when driving then get a new thermostat)

- how much time do you spend sitting in traffic?

- how hilly is it where you drive?

- how often do you go into positive boost?

- how much throttle do you apply at low rpm? (fuel economy has little to do with revs but throttle percentage. you can rev it out to 5000rpm using light throttle and get better economy than someone who only revs to 3000rpm but floors it to get there)

you can check a few things to help get better economy. o2 sensors are a good place to start. also worth jacking the car up and spinning the wheels to make sure you don't have a sticking brake caliper (or hand brake) or damaged wheel bearing.

plenty of factors to consider when looking at fuel economy. generally only use others economy as a rough guide as there are so many variables. here's a list of things to consider:

- do you let the car idle to warm up? a few mins is enough (an idling car will use a few litres per hour)

- how long does the car take to warm up? warm up meaning halfway mark?

- how much time do you spend sitting in traffic? Not alot

- how hilly is it where you drive? Not at all

- how often do you go into positive boost? A fair bit, just normal driving

- how much throttle do you apply at low rpm? (fuel economy has little to do with revs but throttle percentage. you can rev it out to 5000rpm using light throttle and get better economy than someone who only revs to 3000rpm but floors it to get there) Quite alot, i normally am to lazy to drop a gear sometimes, so i just give it more gas

you can check a few things to help get better economy. o2 sensors are a good place to start. also worth jacking the car up and spinning the wheels to make sure you don't have a sticking brake caliper (or hand brake) or damaged wheel bearing.

I'll be getting the o2 sensors and checking all these things in the coming weeks. Thanks mayn.

Also, I would see if the engine's thermostat is working. It might be seized and always opened. The ECU will dump in more fuel when the water temp is low, does your car's water take forever to warm up?

As Marc said, driving habits are the first thing to address if you want to see better fuel usage.

As for oxygen sensors, again, they do absolutely NOTHING if your driving style is heavy.

Do some Googling re-oxygen sensors and you'll see there are many factors that must be satisfied before the ecu will even go to closed loop.

For the majority of time you're running in open loop (no feedback) and the oxygen sensor input is ignored.

Biggest joke out, replacing oxygen sensors and then driving pedal to the metal.

As your problem is somewhat recent, my first look would be coolant temp sensor.

But don't just replace stuff willy-nilly, pay the $$$ to get everything professionally checked.

Also, I would see if the engine's thermostat is working. It might be seized and always opened. The ECU will dump in more fuel when the water temp is low, does your car's water take forever to warm up?

Come to think of it not really, about 4-5 minutes before the needle moves. This is in 5 degree weather (Melbourne)

I'll be getting the o2 sensors and checking all these things in the coming weeks. Thanks mayn.

boost is the enemy of fuel economy. by the sounds of it o2 sensors won't help your economy much as your driving style is causing your poor economy.

I personally get about 400-450ks to a tank on low boost (14psi/340rwhp) in a mix between driving 80ks a day a least with mixture of country back roads and highway driving nice and casually... but If i bump the boost up to highboost(21.5psi/467rwhp) it will chew very badly about 200-250 per tank.

So about 12.5/100 on a very very good run still not as thirsty as my mates Ve ss his worse fuel consumption was about 23/100 stock :S

I have changed the following

Power-Fc

2860-5s

Tomei Dumps

100 Cell Cat

Nismo 600cc Injectors

Nismo Fuel Reg

Nismo Fuel Pump

HKS Hard piping for intercooler

Cooling-pro Front Mount.

I am still running the stock AFMs but clean them regularly!

Clean your AFMs and Airfilter, Change your plugs etc.... My question is have you recently changed the oil brand/weight lately? I only ask as I changed my oil from 0-40w Castrol edge to Royal Purple 3-35w and I noticed a mass drop in response and reliability... so I changed the oil out a week later I also could hear the oil slapping on cold start.

Edited by EAT26

I personally get about 400-450ks to a tank on low boost (14psi/340rwhp) in a mix between driving 80ks a day a least with mixture of country back roads and highway driving nice and casually... but If i bump the boost up to highboost(21.5psi/467rwhp) it will chew very badly about 200-250 per tank.

So about 12.5/100 on a very very good run still not as thirsty as my mates Ve ss his worse fuel consumption was about 23/100 stock :S

I have changed the following

Power-Fc

2860-5s

Tomei Dumps

100 Cell Cat

Nismo 600cc Injectors

Nismo Fuel Reg

Nismo Fuel Pump

HKS Hard piping for intercooler

Cooling-pro Front Mount.

I am still running the stock AFMs but clean them regularly!

Clean your AFMs and Airfilter, Change your plugs etc.... My question is have you recently changed the oil brand/weight lately? I only ask as I changed my oil from 0-40w Castrol edge to Royal Purple 3-35w and I noticed a mass drop in response and reliability... so I changed the oil out a week later I also could hear the oil slapping on cold start.

Its going for a service soon, so hoping to change oils. Ive been using Motul 8100 5-40w fully sen since i started driving it on the road. So maybe a different oil could help? What do you guys reccomend?

Im also going to buy an ECUtalk cable of ebay, sus out shit some more, get a better idea of whats happening.

BTW, thats great fuel economy dude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...