Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS Hypermax Coil-Over Shocks? pretty to look at but!

Hi all, the rear of my car makes a dissapointing and embarrassing knocking noise when driving over a slightly bumpy road. I was told by a friend that it is caused by the 'helper-springs(?)' located just below the main spring. The system costs about $2500+ i'm told. They don't look old, but I guess that could mean nothing when it comes to these parts. Nice car,, ride is firm but semi-comfortable, but sounds like a bomb when traversing anything but glass smooth roads!!! I can't really afford to replace them, anyone else have a similar exp.? Any ideas on how I could shut these bloody things up.?

Ta, in advance. Mark.

This is what was happaning with my old coilovers.

It had me stuffed for months as to what it was.

I ripped them out one day and found that the very top nut was about 1-2 turns loose !! It was tight to look at, and tighter than finger tight, but with a spanner I could get 1-2 more turns until it was really tight.

Wacked them back in and the chuncking was totally gone !!

I was a happy chappy.

So maybe yours are the same?

Is it just the rears that are noisey? Or all four ?

J

Hey Mark,

I just put in a set of Hypermax's and I too am having the same problem. It seems to be in the left rear one (the same spot I have a problem with my last pair).

I thought it could be the exhaust hitting the axle, cause the mount seems to be loose and they are VERY close together.

I was thinking of taking it to Pedders for their $14 dollar check and say (what the f*** is that noise)...

Have you found out what the problem is yet, cause I dont really want to take my rear seat out again.

cheers.

Jez.

I have HKS Hypermax coilovers.

They dont make any noise at all (except after going to the skidpan and it was squeaking a little over bumps - gone after a while)

The only complaint is that they are still uber stiff even on the softest setting

The rest is all good tho.

THis has happend 2 my 2 front hipermax 2 shocks.i took them to bd4's and they tested for travel in the cylenders there was and they had to be reconditioned(i think it's got somthing to do with the seals themselves not being abel to hold the pressure to one side of the cylender thus them leaking cre8ing the travel and having that knocking sound.It wasent the springs nor was it the pillow ball upper mounts.It's only a cm or 2 of play but she bangs when she moves over gradients in the road.

here try this place out ther the only place i know of who recos them....if you know of any other places who reco do tell.....

its @>>>

www.shockreco.com.au :(

This is what was happaning with my old coilovers.

It had me stuffed for months as to what it was.

I ripped them out one day and found that the very top nut was about 1-2 turns loose !!  It was tight to look at, and tighter than finger tight, but with a spanner I could get 1-2 more turns until it was really tight.

Wacked them back in and the chuncking was totally gone !!

I was a happy chappy.

So maybe yours are the same?

Is it just the rears that are noisey?  Or all four ?

J

Hey J33 how did u find out that u needed 2 turn the very top nut (is it the one exposed in the engine bay?)..Also who did you get this info from to turn it.....It sounds a bit 2 sus to me to be doing somthing like this without the help of a proper profesional.Were'nt u afraid of over tightening it?Tell me why did this solve the problem...what purpose does it have 2 the shock? :(

I just put in a set of Hypermax's and I too am having the same problem. It seems to be in the left rear one (the same spot I have a problem with my last pair).

I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!!!

If it's not a cheap easy fix I'm going to turf the whole rear end and get some Bilsteins.

My fronts are fine as is the right rear but I gotta do something about this as Parra Rd. is not usable.

T.

Do'h sorry dude - I didn't even see your post... :(

Long story as to why I had the suspension out. Basically I sold the coilovers and went to stock shocks and a little bit lower springs (I couldn't raise the coilovers any further)...

Anyway, while we had the coilovers out I wanted to have a good look over them to see what was wrong (why the noise etc). This is when I tested the top nut to see how tight it was.

The noisey strut had a loose top nut, while the good one had a tight nut. So I tightened the loose one up to the same as the good one.

We ended up having to put the coilovers BACK in the car cause I was given the wrong springs (I asked for 1 inch lower springs, and they gave me 4 inches lower !!).

This top nut kept the pillowball assembley together ! So when it was loose it allowed a slight bit of play in the pillowball which caused the clunking. Once tightened it was perfect.

There was absolutely no sign of wear in the pillowball mount, just proves how strong these things are.

I wasn't scared of doing it. It was pretty easy, it was a loose nut that needed tightening, and it 100% fixed the problem.

It was one of the rears that was noisey on mine, and to get to the top nut you usually have to take them out of the car as they should have top caps that sit over the top of the strut.

Basically, once the rear seat and parcel shelf is out of the car, and the wheel is off. It's a matter of undoing the 2 top nuts that hold the strut to the car, and one nut down the bottom, and the whole strut/spring assembley will drop out....

We took out the coilovers, put the stock stuff in, took the stock stuff out, put the coilovers back in, all in about 4 hours (with many smoko's :D ).

Now this may not be the problem with all noisey coilovers, some may be totally stuffed, but you won't know unless you spend an hour getting it out, having a look at it, and putting it back.

J

Yeah i guess.The pillow ball has no play......So by going on what your saying it wont help me..Ill have to leave the car up on stands while i send them away to be fixed...these struts are not suited to australian road conditions :goddam:

Just double check how tight the top nut is, like I said, mine was tighter than finger tight so is looked tight, but with a spanner I could get 1-2 more turns out of it.

Good luck - I hope it's something simple like mine was.

J

hi everyone. woah!, excellent responses! this is what i've done..problem was with rear only, front was just too tight, now softened only. The helper spring, located just below the main coil-over spring simply rattles around the OD of the shocker itself, even when on the road and 'captive'. This is just the design of the HKS system, it's built only for track/racing work..unless ofcourse u can put up wid da noise. Now u can 'smear' the whole lower 'helper' spring with heavy grease( messy and lasts for a little while)..or you can see my mechanic and he will exchange your current, good condition springs (all 4 of them on the rear in my case) for koni, bilstein or what ever brand that fits around your shock. It is now a no-nonsense, single spring per shock, quiter and smoother semi standard system that still handles ace and is still fully adjustable via the lowering nuts under the spring as per usual, fine and other adjustment are made via the top part still.(apparantly, there are around 36 seperate settings that can be made on this particular shock) my rear now sound like a proper car (no F***** bump noises) is smoother and not embarrassing me infront of my passenger friends!!. Mike, my mechanic, also fixed my 'spiggot bearing' today as it shit itself after only 5 weeks in Australia...now that was noisy!!! If you want his number, pls send me a private message and I will give it over.Mike works in Moorabbin, on Porcshe and Nissan race cars....and he's no rip off either...ace bloke. You wouldn't think that HKS would make something this noisy, but they are for the race-track...really.

hi everyone. woah!, excellent responses! this is what i've done..problem was with rear only, front was just too tight, now softened only. The helper spring, located just below the main coil-over spring simply rattles around the OD of the shocker itself, ......................

by the way guys (and girls?.......) the Hypermax 2 shocks (pictured) don't appear to have 'helper' springs...so I must have the Hpmx1's, other than that, the same shock.....Mark

Just a precaution, If you replace the HKS springs with a other springs make sure they have similar spring rates because if they are too soft you will end up damaging the shock.

I'm sure that your mechanic has considered this when installing the new springs.

Just a precaution,  If you replace the HKS springs with a other springs make sure they have similar spring rates because if they are too soft you will end up damaging the shock.

I'm sure that your mechanic has considered this when installing the new springs.

Thanx! All things considered......

This was similar to my initial thought, but then my mech suggested that

'rather than add something to reduce the noise, replace something that is making it'.......... Kool, and it appears to be working!

i have seen these problems in a few cars, and most of the time its not the shock itself its the mount at the top where the shock sits in the body. ie. the front is filled with ball bearings(so the shock can turn with the steering) and these bearings often crunch up.

it only seems to become noticable or happens when u fit harder suspension...

i have forgotten what the mount is called but u can see it pretty easily.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

has anyone had a defenite response as to what is causing this problem, I'm very keen to get some ideas before I take it to a professional (can anyone suggest someone that is good with the HKS's in the sydney area, preferrably on the north side of it)

siksII - interesting idea with the mount... do you mean that there is a mount that is on the car that contains bearings, because from memory when I was fitting mine, I dont remember seeing any mount, it just looks like it was slotting straight into the body of the car.

cheers guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...