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Found this in an old thread:

"I have been upgrading my R33 GTS-T along with Grepin however I have GT30/40 internal gate Garrett hybrid. With conservative tune it has 253rwkW at 1.15 bar, with stock inlet and exh manifold, stock throttle body, stock cams, no cam gears. 550cc injectors, Microtech, FMIC."

by Freebaggin

My question is: WHERE can I get this turbo and for how much?

Is it a bolt-on?

How does it compare to the GT2530?

(Mine's a R33 GTSt with FMIC,decatted exhaust,pod and I've just bought a Link ecu and a Bosch 910 pump).

Basically I want a DEFINITIVE answer: What's the best (ie. cheapest,easiest to find and install) bolt-on turbo upgrade for my daily driver car to make 230- 240rwkw?

I've been going through all the old posts and have gotten myself more and more confused :). Need some help pronto!

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37004-attn-freebaggin-or-others/
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Found this in an old thread:

"I have been upgrading my R33 GTS-T along with Grepin however I have GT30/40 internal gate Garrett hybrid. With conservative tune it has 253rwkW at 1.15 bar, with stock inlet and exh manifold, stock throttle body, stock cams, no cam gears. 550cc injectors, Microtech, FMIC."

by Freebaggin

My question is: WHERE can I get this turbo and for how much?

Is it a bolt-on?

How does it compare to the GT2530?

(Mine's a R33 GTSt with FMIC,decatted exhaust,pod and I've just bought a Link ecu and a Bosch 910 pump).

Basically I want a DEFINITIVE answer: What's the best (ie. cheapest,easiest to find and install) bolt-on turbo upgrade for my daily driver car to make 230- 240rwkw?

I've been going through all the old posts and have gotten myself more and more confused :). Need some help pronto!

Freebaggins is bolt on, and it hauls ass!!! I have emailed him the link to this thread

Chris

Cheers Chris,

Seems that Freebaggin's turbo is producing an awesome result, for a bolt-on,internal gated and even on stock internals (if I'm not mistaken). Can't wait to find out where he got it!! Being a Garrett, I hopefully assume that it's cheaper than a gt2530 but I may be wrong.

Cheers Chris,

Seems that Freebaggin's turbo is producing an awesome result, for a bolt-on,internal gated and even on stock internals (if I'm not mistaken). Can't wait to find out where he got it!! Being a Garrett, I hopefully assume that it's cheaper than a gt2530 but I may be wrong.

gobiz, yes it's a bolt-on hybid Garrett GT3040 CHRA with machined 0.60 A/R compressor housing (rather than the normal 0.7) that allows it to clear the exhaust manifold. It also has 0.63 exhaust A/R for better boost response with smallish internal gate (no bigger than 30mm) but up to 19psi or 1.3 bar it seems to control boost OK with good EBC, anyway I don't want to run any more boost than that.

Compressor wheel is big by comparison to say HKS GT3037ProS (good bolt-on option but expensive) or 450-500HP Garrett GT30, so potential is there for big grunt as I said before I have all stock stuff (other than injectors) that is holding back top-end power, currently get 265rwkW at 1.2bar. Could easily wind in more boost for more grunt but I am aiming for good power at low boost, 1.1-1.2 bar. With better exhaust manifold and cams i think I'll get 290+rwkW at 1.2bar.

Joel is right, got it from Horsepowerinabox, definetely recommend that path. For other cheap options I'd have a look at the selection on www.nismo.com.au under New Products, prices are pretty good but not as good as Tim from Horsepowerinabox.

You could opt for 500HP compressor wheel rather than the 600HP wheel on mine for better boost response below 3500rpm but still easily achieve 240-250rwkW.

Let us know how you go, also Tim goes to SE Asia for tuning sometimes, he could go there and do it for ya!!

Thanks heaps Freebaggin, so how do I get in touch with Tim?

I probably would like the exact same setup as yours.

250rwkw with minor or no lag would be what I've always dreamed about!!!

try www.horsepowerinabox.com :rofl:

Chris

Thanks heaps Freebaggin, so how do I get in touch with Tim?

I probably would like the exact same setup as yours.

250rwkw with minor or no lag would be what I've always dreamed about!!!

You'll definately notice the lag gobiz, about 800-1000rpm difference from stock turbo but once over 3500rpm it's the same response.

Best to e-mail Tim and mention my black R33 he got the turbo for here in Adelaide and he'll get you the same.

His e-mail is on the website Chris32 put up.

A bit of advice though, you will have to be very carefull of 240rwkW+ RB25s with stock injectors as a few of us reckon all the piston ringland busting issues for these motors have been associated with pushing the stock injectors too far, 550cc are the way to go for security.

Howeevr, your Link ECU might not work with different resistance injectors, might have to talk with the supplier about it.

The GT30 500hp is external gate for what Tim told me.  Which one is the internal gate?

I had a look on the website and I couldn't see it. Might have to ask Tim specifically for 500HP RB20-RB25 "bolt-on" hybrid with T3 Internal Sierra Cosworth exhaust housing.

Cheers on that. I'll definitely get bigger injectors.

What are Sydneykid, Steve and Meggala's thoughts on this turbo?  

Sorry if I didn't include any other vets!Appreciate all inputs!!!

:(:):)

Not sure these guys have direct experience with my turbo as mine was a first, being so big and being internal gate and the hybrid nature of it.

There are a few other "bolt-on" options but not too many:

HKS have about 3 worthwhile ones range GT3037ProS (480PS or 270-300rwkW) or GT2835ProS (420PS or 250-280rwkW) or GT2540 (380PS??)

Apexi RX6 (I think)

Trust 19G series, not sure if internal gate though

Try www.gcg.com.au as well.

The Garrett and HKS are best due to double ball baring CHRAs.

so 260rwkw at a 1bar to 1.3 is safe in a stock rb25 with good tune and fuel supply. reason i ask is because seems i have done a big end or small end bearing with stock turbo. i have brought a t3/t4 with a ar .63 which i was told would produce around 350hp at a bar. The power im looking for is 350 to 380rwhp. the bottom end will be exposed to fix the problem bearing and i have a rough quote of 4000-4500 to rebuild with forgies ex... but if its safe to get that power out of stock i wouldnt bother as i am very tight for the money.

how long has your car been running this set up and power?

cheers for any help you can offer

so 260rwkw at a 1bar to 1.3 is safe in a stock rb25 with good tune and fuel supply. reason i ask is because seems i have done a big end or small end bearing with stock turbo. i have brought a t3/t4 with a ar .63 which i was told would produce around 350hp at a bar. The power im looking for is 350 to 380rwhp. the bottom end will be exposed to fix the problem bearing and i have a rough quote of 4000-4500 to rebuild with forgies ex... but  if its safe to get that power out of stock i wouldnt bother as i am very tight for the money.

how long has your car been running this set up and power?

cheers for any help you can offer

If your motor is knackered and it needs rebuilding anyway, I reckon you'd be better off spending the cash once and go for forgies, will allow you to go spastic with boost/power and not be conservative. You don't want to toss about a second time if and when your pistons blow.

I personally dont run at 265rwkW much of the time, mostly 245rwkW at 0.8bar when thrashing and once in a while at 1.2 bar. Been running since November 2003, same for Grepin and he thrashes the shit out of it at 275rwkW all the time.

Myself, Grepin and Steve running 260-320rwkW with stock pistons as well as old JMS R33 at 300rwkW. Plenty of WA guys as well I think, but since your opening up bottom of motor it might worth the cost, but I see what you mean re $4000-5000 for forgies when you see us running OK with stockies.

Having said that, I personally know 5 SA R33s with blown pistons (and all with stock injectors), but ones with big injectors and running alot more power are still fine.

Difficult choice mate, but really depends on how hard you thrash and how often, if often and hard then go forgies, better for the long term potential if you want to keep car.

yea that pritty much what i was thinking. I would be doing about the same running low boost for daly driving then wind it up for a crusie or a trip to the drags. I dont have the money to do a full build but seems a waste not to do somthing. Could you sudjest a mild build option which would work out cheaper but give it a bit more strenght. meaning what is the weekes link in the bottom end?

thanks for the reply

yea that pritty much what i was thinking. I would be doing about the same running low boost for daly driving then wind it up for a crusie or a trip to the drags. I dont have the money to do a full build but seems a waste not to do somthing. Could you sudjest a mild build option which would work out cheaper but give it a bit more strenght. meaning what is the weekes link in the bottom end?

thanks for the reply

I'm not really qualified for that stuff, I heard Steve at SST in WA is the man whi could tell you. Others like Sydneykid, Clint32 and others are better with engine tech.

All I know is that the ring lands are the only real weak link in RB25s and sounds you are unlucky re bearings, having said someone said some the sphincter of the universe fired up the JMS car and cained it when still cold and smashed a bearing..?????

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