Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all the clutch on my R32 GTS-T just died out on the way home :( the clutch itself is probably 9 months old and has never been driven hard. It basically lost all pressure in the pedal and wasn't springing back from the floor, the weirdest thing is that i had a brand new Master cylinder and a second hand working Slave installed only a month ago and properly bled up all professionally!! It seems to have dropped a small amount of fluid but the reservoir was still above empty, we attempted filling it up and bleeding on the side of the road for about 15 mins to no avail.

Does anyone seem to know what this may be or at least a general idea on what i should look at fixing? I'm going to have a decent look tomorrow to check for leaking or split lines but I doubt i'm going to be able to tell where the problem lies.

Cheers any help would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370306-help-clutch-gone/
Share on other sites

Yeah thinking the slave cylinder too, but nick shaw seems to think that one shouldn't have died, would the fork pivot ball cause the pedal to stick like that too? it has about 4mm of pressure when we were trying to bleed it up but not enough to get into gears or anything!! Cheers for the help man

Its good that you've figured it out mate, are you sure the slave cylinder is broken? as the slave cylinder failing wont cause the pivot ball to break, did the clutch pedal go really stiff when it broke or did the pedal just drop to the floor under normal conditions ? The hub that the release bearing is on may have gotten dry and sticky or could have even jammed causing more load on the pivot ball/clutch fork, let me know if you need any bits mate as i have a few gearboxes laying around.

i would say the pivot ball broke first causing the slave to hyper extend , the usual cause is from not being cleaned/re greased on clutch changes (if the clutch feels un-usually heavy , normally it's caused by this also) . the slave may be fine if you push the piston back in the chamber , there isn't much that can go wrong with them pinch.gif

i would say the pivot ball broke first causing the slave to hyper extend , the usual cause is from not being cleaned/re greased on clutch changes (if the clutch feels un-usually heavy , normally it's caused by this also) . the slave may be fine if you push the piston back in the chamber , there isn't much that can go wrong with them pinch.gif

Pretty simple little units, generally they just seize or wear/tear the seals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...