Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can't mess with the knock sensors very easily. They are really just piezo microphones. They listen and feed the waveform back to the knock board in the ECU which decides if it's hearing knock or not. If you wanted to fake a knock sense, then you'd need to send a convincing waveform that you'd have to synthesize somehow.

From my experience with the knock sensors and the knock map, the whole thing is not reliable anyway. I couldn't get my ECU to stay on the main map even though it wasn't pinging, so we just did what a lot of Nistuners do, which is to make both maps the same. That way you don't find yourself drivign around on a soft map, and the extra safety actor can go to hell. My ECU has been tuned like that for a few years now, and there has not been a single moment where it has been bad.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That was me with the CarPC and switching maps and PULP98 and E-Flex and all that...

After running between the 2 different fuels for a while now, I've found it a bit of a waste of time...

As in i wanted to get around the "draining the tank and then switching fuels" But I end up just loading the PULP98 map and trimming the AFR's to suit for the couple of "Inbetween tanks" where the mix is somewhere in the middle of E70 and E0.

But having 2, 3, 4, as many maps as you'd like is easy with NIStune.

As for the capacity of power limits ect. forget about it...

You can't mess with the knock sensors very easily. They are really just piezo microphones. They listen and feed the waveform back to the knock board in the ECU which decides if it's hearing knock or not. If you wanted to fake a knock sense, then you'd need to send a convincing waveform that you'd have to synthesize somehow.

Just make a headphone jack for the knock loom and plug it into some really bad metal, lol.

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

Buy an ECU that gives you all the functions you want. If you really wanted to do double maps, you can do what some of the Jap companies were doing and doing a double EPROM with a switch on pin 1 for power or whatever it was. It just swapped power to the other EPROM and ran a seperate map.

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

Buy an ECU that gives you all the functions you want. If you really wanted to do double maps, you can do what some of the Jap companies were doing and doing a double EPROM with a switch on pin 1 for power or whatever it was. It just swapped power to the other EPROM and ran a seperate map.

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

Yeah the V500 is actually more advanced than the Motec at this point. Runs 6 multi controllers and is the only ECU other than Motec that does.

You need to read up on this ECU to fully understand what it is capable of. You can overlay each map over each other and each multi controller has 6 inputs and outputs or something like that. Each one can be made as a 32x32 table which can be layed over any other table.

So you can do boost over wheel speed over tps over fuel pressure over nitrous pressure over ignition timing if you want

Pretty much whatever you can imagine.

Only after swapping to the V500 did all our problems go away.

As far as I know it's really good. I am not a tuner, just an end user. From what I have seen though, it is very 'thorough'. I don't think it's something just anybody can get a handle of. You need to know what you are doing. I have heard people complain about the current software but it's always stuff that exceeds their knowledge so they are only complaining in ignorance

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh.

In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

V500 is junk... cannot be compared to a $1400 LINK G4 or Vipec or haltech for that matter... worlds apart in quality.

V500 is junk... cannot be compared to a $1400 LINK G4 or Vipec or haltech for that matter... worlds apart in quality.

This is pretty much what my mates tell me, but I always hear conflicting reports on here, though I get the feeling the people who say it is good don't actually use it.

Heard much about the DTAFast range of ECUs?

Edited by Rolls

Lol @ using a vibrator to set the knock sensor off.

Im not 100% sure but if the knock sensor is faulty it will run on the knock maps. I havent checked the resistance on a faulty sensor but i know a good sensor is 570kohm.

So if it was as simple as setting a 2nd wiring circuit with a higher/lower resistor so when u switch to the 2nd circuit it jumps to the knock maps.

I dont trust the knock maps. Especially at higher rpm where there is alot of valve train noise

If ever there was a bad way to achieve something - you guys have found it

Doing it with knock sensors is kinda dodgey and pretty funny at the same time.

I thought it was an AWSOME idea... ha ha ha. it's right up there with the clasics- trim pot on the afm, welding the clutchplate to the flywheel, skipping a tooth on the cam gear/belt on a vl rb30, stick on wrx bonnet scoops and plastic spinners rims.

J.

LOL

only thing i dont like about my NIStune is it doesnt show knock readings for the r32 gtr, but apparently Matt has been trying to make it work for years now...

You can get real knock (audible on knock ears) but have it not register on the knock count, I wouldn't trust the standard nissan system.

Non of them accurately show knock reading like power fc does michael.

The ecu has an internal knock board that senses knock which then switches to the knock maps. But doesnt let the user know when it does it.

would you prefer that the ecu shows you that its knowing and flashes a light at you yet does nothing about it and by then it may be too late (power fc) or would prefer an ecu that when it senses knocking reverts to a knock copy map which saves the engine. (nistune)

would you prefer that the ecu shows you that its knowing and flashes a light at you yet does nothing about it and by then it may be too late (power fc) or would prefer an ecu that when it senses knocking reverts to a knock copy map which saves the engine. (nistune)

The issue is it doesn't half the time. We put a set of knock ears on my old car and reved out 3rd gear on a hot day (30c) after idlding it around for 30 minutes to get it real hot and it started pinging its tits off, didn't go to the knock map where we had taken 5degrees out across the whole boost section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...