Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod Filters

Fryday13

By Fryday13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fryday13 Collaborator

Fryday13

Posted
Posted

Ive been looking around at getting a POD filter for my RB25DE and thought id nail two birds with one stone. First of all what size am I meant to be looking for I haven't seen a straight answer to that yet. Also everywhere I look says they are for race purposes only? surely this isn't right and im looking in the wrong places!

Any help for either question would be great! cheers guys, thanks in advance!!! =]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/
Share on other sites
Juz Experienced

Juz

Posted
Posted

Hey mate,

Firstly let me suggest you buy a Decent Panel filter Like a KnN or a BLITZ they will be legal and basically do the same job.

I bet all your friends have said dude get this and that, it will make it go better, WRONG. In Reality a POD filter will do nothing but suck hotter Air Into the engine, unless you also invest in a COLD-AIR intake then It might do something, but it will still Be very minimal. You will be much better off leaving the stock air box and funnel, the engineering of it its awesome!. Cold air straight from the front bar, Unless you want a FULLY SICK waste of $30 bucks, and a defect notice. Yes they are illegal unless covered.

Perhaps a change of spark plugs instead of wasting your money.

To answer your question, Use the search tool. This has been covered before, or just maybe buy the right size adaptor.

JUZ.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907034
Share on other sites
SHANE666 Mentor

SHANE666

Posted
Posted

Agree with Juz.

Considering you're not driving a turbo, investment in a pod filter will deliver very marginal returns in terms of performance. The best investment for you would be a high flow panel filter - K&N make good filters and are guaranteed for life, service needed every 30,000kms. I use a high flow K&N panel filter in my EVO 8 MR and wouldn't convert to a pod filter unless I purchased a cold air box or relocated the pod to the front bar.

Cheers

Shanil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907079
Share on other sites
The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

Pod filter = useless mod, if your stock IC piping will allow the use of the stock air box use it, I do recommend modifying it so it has a cold air intake and a larger route for the in coming air, Google "modify standard air box" and "cold air intake' for some easy DIY projects.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907089
Share on other sites
Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
Posted

I had to make this decision a few weeks ago firstly panel and pod are nearly identical in performance, so I ende up going the pod filter. Why you ask?

1. I built a heat shield

2. I modified the stock CAI so it delivered cold air to the pod

3. I liked the difference in sound when you put the pedal down

4. Fuel efficiency has been improved either due to hot air being sucked in an therefore leaner fuel has been used OR more power has been delivered because of the same amount of fuel or less therefore less fuel has been used

5. It was just something to do in my holidays

Panel filter will do the same thing, get a high flow one, the stock airbox and snorkel is excellent!

I know there has been many topics on pod vs panel but in the end I believe a pod with a good CAI and heat shield wins if you can invest time and money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907104
Share on other sites
Fryday13 Collaborator

Fryday13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha reasonably spot on about how my mates are telling me all sorts of things! just new to the whole thing so trying to get as much information as possible before going out and wasting money away. Cheers for the links im hitting them up now, always keen to get into DIY.

You also may have steered me from POD's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907129
Share on other sites
045HOW Mentor

045HOW

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey mate,

Firstly let me suggest you buy a Decent Panel filter Like a KnN or a BLITZ they will be legal and basically do the same job.

I bet all your friends have said dude get this and that, it will make it go better, WRONG. In Reality a POD filter will do nothing but suck hotter Air Into the engine, unless you also invest in a COLD-AIR intake then It might do something, but it will still Be very minimal. You will be much better off leaving the stock air box and funnel, the engineering of it its awesome!. Cold air straight from the front bar, Unless you want a FULLY SICK waste of $30 bucks, and a defect notice. Yes they are illegal unless covered.

Perhaps a change of spark plugs instead of wasting your money.

To answer your question, Use the search tool. This has been covered before, or just maybe buy the right size adaptor.

JUZ.

depends what state as to legalities of pod filter. in QLD you don't have to cover them but they have to be securely fitted with a bracket. the f**ked up thing is that the actual ruling is that an air filter is classed as being part of the fuel system. and it actually states that the air filter must be "securely fitted to the fuel system" meaning the clamp you use to fit the pod to the intake must be tight. but cops up here will still defect you if you dont have it bracketed to the chassis unless you can prove them wrong or in most cases go to court where the judge says "well officer was the air filter securely fitted to the fuel system?" to which the officer has to reply "yes" and then you win. i for one run a bracket on my pod because id rather not go to court because i was right lol.

Edited by Blueone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907183
Share on other sites
Fryday13 Collaborator

Fryday13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ha well then is there a difference between brands? or i suppose my question is how big is the difference between brands? like will you get more power or better sound from one? is it personal preference? and if there isnt much difference whats to stop me from getting a cheap ass one? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907292
Share on other sites
045HOW Mentor

045HOW

Posted
Posted

Ha well then is there a difference between brands? or i suppose my question is how big is the difference between brands? like will you get more power or better sound from one? is it personal preference? and if there isnt much difference whats to stop me from getting a cheap ass one? :P

Well when your 15 dollar pod disintegrates and ends up inside Your engine... lol

i choose HKS because HKS is good and the sound is the best in my opinion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/370580-pod-filters/#findComment-5907348
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • GTSBoy
      Starting again

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Satwinder
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Satwinder · Posted

      Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...