Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Stereo Head Unit Wiring Diagram For Pioneer Deck & Handbrake Bypassing


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd make a DIY post for people wanting the correct wiring diagram for connecting a Pioneer head unit ...

Im making this post because I struggled with the general diagram and the colours were not matching correct so if you got Pioneer, your in luck.

Pictures are attached but I wrote it down also:

NOTE: May work for other models but this is specifically for R34 Skyline with a Pioneer Head Unit.

Car: Dark green - Stereo: Yellow

Car: Orange with black strip - Stereo: Red

Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - Stereo: Orange with white strip

Car: Grey with blue strip - Stereo: Blue with white strip

Car: Orange - Stereo: Purple

Car: Black with pink strip - Stereo: Purple with black strip

Car: Pale green - Stereo: Green

Car: Black with yellow strip - Stereo: Green with black strip

Car: Brown - Stereo: Grey

Car: Brown with white strip - Stereo: Grey with black strip

Car: Blue with white strip - Stereo: White

Car: Blue with yellow strip - Stereo: White with black strip

Hope this helps if you needed it..

Also if you need help with bypassing the handbrake I worked it out too, if its an old model DVD head unit you can just tap the wire labeled handbrake into the ground wire and this will allow you to have the DVD open while driving.

Although if you have bought a new model pioneer head unit, you cant just ground it, it wont work so what you have to do is on the wiring harness that comes with the pioneer head unit, there will be a wire labelled "mute" (this wire is not needed) so remove it without damaging it and you will need to move it to another port on the plug. You will see on the plug where the wires come out that there are two black wires coming out, but there is a empty gap between them.. now insert the mute wire into this port (make sure it clicks in). Now strip the end of the mute wire and tap it into the handbrake wire. Now that the mute and handbrake wire are connected together you can now ground it or tap it into the ground wire. This will then allow you to have the DVD screen on while driving and if it has a GPS you can now input the address without stopping the car and pulling up the handbrake first.

I know the handbrake bypassing sounds complicated if you have the new type but ill be glad to help if you want to ask any questions or need more detail on certain steps.

post-86274-0-39285300-1310480341_thumb.jpg

post-86274-0-88519700-1310480388_thumb.jpg

post-86274-0-43333300-1310480462_thumb.jpg

Very helpful Benny boy.

This should be stickied. This is the only thread you will find showing what the factory R34 stereo wires connect to.

Edited by PAV34
  • 2 months later...

Hey, I Got new Pioneer AVH-P2300 DVD unit and wanna know how to Bypass hand Brake on this Unit.

1) do i need to Buy any add on Device to work ?

2) Any simple trick & tweak?

Thanks in Advance

the way i bypassed my clarion dvd player is a switch yeah shonkey but not as bad as not having dvd screen at all, just a wire from the ground to the switch and the handbrake wire off the deck to the switch, in the ashtray and tadaaa you want dvd just flick the switch.

  • 2 years later...

IMO this should really be (for ease for everyone who is doing this):

Car: Dark green - unswitched power (battery)
Car: Orange with black strip - switched power (ignition)
Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - illumination (so when your dash lights come on, the screen dims so it doesn't glare at night)
Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)
Car: Orange - rear right speaker +
Car: Black with pink strip - rear right speaker -
Car: Pale green - rear left speaker +
Car: Black with yellow strip - rear left speaker -
Car: Brown - right front speaker +
Car: Brown with white strip - right front speaker -
Car: Blue with white strip - left front speaker +
Car: Blue with yellow strip - left front speaker -

For the earth you can just put a ring terminal under the bolt on the panel holding the gear shift boot. Easy to access.

Edited by sleptema
  • 3 weeks later...

IMO this should really be (for ease for everyone who is doing this):

Car: Dark green - unswitched power (battery)

Car: Orange with black strip - switched power (ignition)

Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - illumination (so when your dash lights come on, the screen dims so it doesn't glare at night)

Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)

Car: Orange - rear right speaker +

Car: Black with pink strip - rear right speaker -

Car: Pale green - rear left speaker +

Car: Black with yellow strip - rear left speaker -

Car: Brown - right front speaker +

Car: Brown with white strip - right front speaker -

Car: Blue with white strip - left front speaker +

Car: Blue with yellow strip - left front speaker -

For the earth you can just put a ring terminal under the bolt on the panel holding the gear shift boot. Easy to access.

Perfect thanks lots!!!

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...

Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)

Just for anyone who might be wondering, in GT-X models that included the Xanavi GPS/TV Package & Skyline Holographic Sound option from factory, the antenna booster wire is actually red with a white strip. There is still a grey wire with blue strip in the loom, but at this stage I haven't been able to work out what it actually does.

  • 3 months later...

just found out today while hooking up a new head unti into my sedan with holographivc sound - the grey with blue is the amp for the rear speakers. crappy flat sound from the back if the hu remote turn on wire (blue with white stripe) isnt hooked up to that wire, full sound when connected. its the standard nissan amp power on wire

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...