Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Stereo Head Unit Wiring Diagram For Pioneer Deck & Handbrake Bypassing

det034

By det034,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

det034 Collaborator

det034

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd make a DIY post for people wanting the correct wiring diagram for connecting a Pioneer head unit ...

Im making this post because I struggled with the general diagram and the colours were not matching correct so if you got Pioneer, your in luck.

Pictures are attached but I wrote it down also:

NOTE: May work for other models but this is specifically for R34 Skyline with a Pioneer Head Unit.

Car: Dark green - Stereo: Yellow

Car: Orange with black strip - Stereo: Red

Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - Stereo: Orange with white strip

Car: Grey with blue strip - Stereo: Blue with white strip

Car: Orange - Stereo: Purple

Car: Black with pink strip - Stereo: Purple with black strip

Car: Pale green - Stereo: Green

Car: Black with yellow strip - Stereo: Green with black strip

Car: Brown - Stereo: Grey

Car: Brown with white strip - Stereo: Grey with black strip

Car: Blue with white strip - Stereo: White

Car: Blue with yellow strip - Stereo: White with black strip

Hope this helps if you needed it..

Also if you need help with bypassing the handbrake I worked it out too, if its an old model DVD head unit you can just tap the wire labeled handbrake into the ground wire and this will allow you to have the DVD open while driving.

Although if you have bought a new model pioneer head unit, you cant just ground it, it wont work so what you have to do is on the wiring harness that comes with the pioneer head unit, there will be a wire labelled "mute" (this wire is not needed) so remove it without damaging it and you will need to move it to another port on the plug. You will see on the plug where the wires come out that there are two black wires coming out, but there is a empty gap between them.. now insert the mute wire into this port (make sure it clicks in). Now strip the end of the mute wire and tap it into the handbrake wire. Now that the mute and handbrake wire are connected together you can now ground it or tap it into the ground wire. This will then allow you to have the DVD screen on while driving and if it has a GPS you can now input the address without stopping the car and pulling up the handbrake first.

I know the handbrake bypassing sounds complicated if you have the new type but ill be glad to help if you want to ask any questions or need more detail on certain steps.

post-86274-0-39285300-1310480341_thumb.jpg

post-86274-0-88519700-1310480388_thumb.jpg

post-86274-0-43333300-1310480462_thumb.jpg

PAV34 Mentor

PAV34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Very helpful Benny boy.

This should be stickied. This is the only thread you will find showing what the factory R34 stereo wires connect to.

Edited by PAV34
  • 2 months later...
Shankarsam25 Newbie

Shankarsam25

Posted
Posted

Hey, I Got new Pioneer AVH-P2300 DVD unit and wanna know how to Bypass hand Brake on this Unit.

1) do i need to Buy any add on Device to work ?

2) Any simple trick & tweak?

Thanks in Advance

MrRx7s3 Mentor

MrRx7s3

Posted
Posted

the way i bypassed my clarion dvd player is a switch yeah shonkey but not as bad as not having dvd screen at all, just a wire from the ground to the switch and the handbrake wire off the deck to the switch, in the ashtray and tadaaa you want dvd just flick the switch.

  • 2 years later...
sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted (edited)

IMO this should really be (for ease for everyone who is doing this):

Car: Dark green - unswitched power (battery)
Car: Orange with black strip - switched power (ignition)
Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - illumination (so when your dash lights come on, the screen dims so it doesn't glare at night)
Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)
Car: Orange - rear right speaker +
Car: Black with pink strip - rear right speaker -
Car: Pale green - rear left speaker +
Car: Black with yellow strip - rear left speaker -
Car: Brown - right front speaker +
Car: Brown with white strip - right front speaker -
Car: Blue with white strip - left front speaker +
Car: Blue with yellow strip - left front speaker -

For the earth you can just put a ring terminal under the bolt on the panel holding the gear shift boot. Easy to access.

Edited by sleptema
  • 3 weeks later...
etang789 Community Regular

etang789

Posted
Posted

IMO this should really be (for ease for everyone who is doing this):

Car: Dark green - unswitched power (battery)

Car: Orange with black strip - switched power (ignition)

Car: Red with blue strip (in image below its yellow.. used to extend it) - illumination (so when your dash lights come on, the screen dims so it doesn't glare at night)

Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)

Car: Orange - rear right speaker +

Car: Black with pink strip - rear right speaker -

Car: Pale green - rear left speaker +

Car: Black with yellow strip - rear left speaker -

Car: Brown - right front speaker +

Car: Brown with white strip - right front speaker -

Car: Blue with white strip - left front speaker +

Car: Blue with yellow strip - left front speaker -

For the earth you can just put a ring terminal under the bolt on the panel holding the gear shift boot. Easy to access.

Perfect thanks lots!!!

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Phyco Apprentice

Phyco

Posted
Posted

Car: Grey with blue strip - remote (or antenna?)

Just for anyone who might be wondering, in GT-X models that included the Xanavi GPS/TV Package & Skyline Holographic Sound option from factory, the antenna booster wire is actually red with a white strip. There is still a grey wire with blue strip in the loom, but at this stage I haven't been able to work out what it actually does.

  • 3 months later...
junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted

just found out today while hooking up a new head unti into my sedan with holographivc sound - the grey with blue is the amp for the rear speakers. crappy flat sound from the back if the hu remote turn on wire (blue with white stripe) isnt hooked up to that wire, full sound when connected. its the standard nissan amp power on wire

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...