Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You doing it yourself with a kit or do you just have a core and need to mount and pipe it all up? Coz kits are much easier and can be installed in an afternoon.

Ive been doing mine at the moment which is just a cooler and ive had to weld custom mounting brackets to it. Took me a whole day getting it to fit right, trimming the bumper supports and so on. Trial and error really.

Make sure you have all the tools before you start, if you gotta make up custom bits and pieces, plus cut a steel bumper support you'll need plenty of tools. An angle grinder is a must (even the kits require trimming to the bumper support)

I havent even started on the piping yet. Thats gonna be another couple of days work at least for me.

Give us some more info.... did you get a kit with pipes already bent, or are you oing to fit it up and go away and get the pipes bent? Which ever way, If its your first time fabricating I would make sure you leave some clearance between the start and ends (dont make it to tight) and use the silicone hose to join it.

Ok, thanks for your reply..

The intercooler is a Hybrid Copy, and im getting a custom kit made, eg: some guy os making some pipes down in sydney then sending them up with the hoses and clamps.

I'm sure joinging the pipes together should be easy. As im guessing you just clide thhe hones over the end, clamp one side, slide the hose over the next bit and clamp that

The bit i have no idea about is, how to attach it to the inlet manafold, how to attach it to the turbo and how to attach it to the intercooler

I also dont think the kit will supply mounting brackets for the intercooler, so finding the correct position and mounting it correctly is going to be hard

This is why im kind of in a need of a step by step guide on how to do this, as the kit wont have any instructions :)

if you know someone with a pipe bender you can just buy straight pipe and bend it to whatever you need. which instead of paying $20 a bend will work out alot cheaper.

there is a post by someone that shows you how easy it is...

also you when you pipe up the cooler you can use the standard pipes that are in the engine bay going down under the airfilter... just off them run it straight to the new cooler. search - DIY R32 cooler install and its a tread by JiMiH.. very well done.

i'm getting one of those coolers too. i have aout 3 of my mates working with stanless so it shouldn't be too hard to get it welded. :)

Bro .. I stated above that its a custom kit, eg: the piping is all bent for me .. a mate is doing the pipeing and sending it to me, i just have to piece it together

hmm im still confused .. i think i need to find out more about the custom pipes this dude is makin

is your mates doing all the piping for your intercooler..?

If your like me and cant weld aluminium and all you need is a new front mount to meet up with the existing return pipe going under the intercooler you could you take it to a shop get them to mount it and have the pipe made there on the spot drive your car home and refit the front bar yourself?It makes sence...It would save alot of money.And only a bit of real effort on your behalf.

You've lost me bro .. im way confused..

Ill try and make it clearer...

I have a Front Mount Intercooler

I have a workshop making some stainless steel pipes for the intercooler

The workshop gives me the pipes (all shaped) and some hose and clamps

Piece by piece i connect the pipes together using the hose and clamps

I have my stock intercooler and pipes removed

I think i connect to start of the pipes to both ends of the inter cooler by hose and clamp

The bit im unsure about is..

How do i connect the 2 ends (one goes to the turbo, the other ti the manafold, correct?)

do i do this by hose and clamp?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...