Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Perspex sucks!!! I got it from bunnings.

If you can get polycarbonate/lexan, that material is less likey to shatter.

I cut it with a bandsaw at bashers workshop, the inside ring, I just drilled a crap load of holes with drill then used the drill to cut between the holes.

Then just gave it a quick file. It's rough, but beats paying $1200+ for nismo's.

Cost:

housings $250 (I didn't want to pull mine apart)

perspex $35

90 LEDs $78 (jaycar electronics)

resistors and diodes $4

silicone $12

I'm hoping the will be bright enough! In hindsight I should of tried the brake lights in the sun to check brightness....

Thanks for the break down.

I've got plenty of housings which is good :D

Where did you buy the LEDs?

My usual spot for random things is eBay, but someone recommended in the thread not to.

So cheap on there.

What MCD LEDs did you go for? - you're hoping they're bright enough! Let me know haha.

From jaycar, and they are 4000MCD.

Lol, I put in in the last page of my post....

Cool, yeah I had a brief look in ebay..meh

My tip for the day is keep an eye on the oven, if you smell plastic....RUN lolz!!!!

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I see you printed the circuit boards for your LED Taillight conversion was it difficult?

http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=4694490&postcount=21

dsc00766.jpg

Can you make some for the R34?

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Making good boards like this is pretty easy if you have the right tools ,

Sneaky trick running 3 LED's rather than 4 in each string allowing the brightness level between Tail and Stop to be a reasonable contrast.

I'll be placing some LED's up the rear pillar on my Axis this weekend if I'm not on the road, so I had best take some pictures as well :)

.

Edited by MozzMann

i was thinking about doing it mass produced wise, had the patterns all stored in the cutter and everything and and even have a 70% finished set sittign in my room with male adapters for the factory plugs.. so much CBF though

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Has anyone used Red LEDs instead of the clear ones in their tail lights?

The current prices at Jaycar are -

White waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $1.90/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $190

Red waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $0.99/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $99

(correct me if I'm wrong)

My understanding is that only the red light produced from a white LED is going to pass through the stock red tail light lense. Where a higher percentage of light from a red LED will will pass through the red lense.

So in saying that, would a red LED should be perfectly fine behind a red lense?

  • 1 month later...

Has anyone used Red LEDs instead of the clear ones in their tail lights?

The current prices at Jaycar are -

White waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $1.90/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $190

Red waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $0.99/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $99

(correct me if I'm wrong)

My understanding is that only the red light produced from a white LED is going to pass through the stock red tail light lense. Where a higher percentage of light from a red LED will will pass through the red lense.

So in saying that, would a red LED should be perfectly fine behind a red lense?

Any update on your LED DIY?

IME using white leds behind a red filter will give a pinkish red. Its not a proper brake light colour at all. Much better to use red leds in the first place.

Also those prices at jaycar are criminal. No way is a single 5mm led worth $1.90 per led (bulk price too!). I dont even bother with jaycar anymore unless there is a single item I need right away, the prices are far too high.

I have found regular lensed leds to be quite reliable from china off ebay. We're talking 100 of them for about $2. As long as you drive them conservatively, perhaps <50% of their rated current, they should be fine for many years.

I have never had a regular lensed led start flickering (and eventually fail), unlike SMD leds which I have seen many times.

I suspect part of the issue is that ebay led light packages come with too low resistors, and so the lights are being driven harder to be made brighter, but at the expense that a higher % of them will fail.

Any update on your LED DIY?

No not as of yet, car has been at my mechanics for many months so I haven't had a chance to get started on it. I will be doing a Nismo R34 led layout on an early tail light (afterburner) HR31 Skyline.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

No not as of yet, car has been at my mechanics for many months so I haven't had a chance to get started on it. I will be doing a Nismo R34 led layout on an early tail light (afterburner) HR31 Skyline.

Let me know when you start working on this R34 LED project

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...