Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you have a power just monitor injduty and TPS

replacate

replacate with gate wired open

i would be gobsmacked if duty was less @ the same TPS with gate wired open

the physics do not support it

about 10 years ago a friend did this. I think he had a turbo starion at the time. He poped the clip off the actuator/flap

and noticed better economy. From memory the car was basically standard. It wasnt just a little bit of economy, it was

pretty significant. He drove it around like that for atleast 6 months.

It got me interested so I did the same to my car at the time. Quite funny driving around. Nearly like NA but it will

still pull really low boost up top. You can also hear the turbo trying to spool driving around but no boost. I noticed

better economy too but got jack of it and didnt last a week till the clip found its way back on.

regarding your switch/circuit. There are water injection parts that people sell off the shelf that when the systems

pressure switch detects a clog it will N/O or N/C to a safty trigger (solenoid) linked to your wastegate control to run wastegate

pressure. They also use it for low level saftey

imo go for it, wont be hard or time consuming to knock up. you will notice better economy but it might drive like shit.

The earlier your system produces boost the more fuel to be saved but also has the biggest impact on driveability

You would really need a tune to make use of it.

What everyone has been trying to tell you is that compression ratios, combustions chambers, cam profiles and ECU maps have all been set up for a TURBO. The best compromise you could get would be to run an ECU with dual map functions and actually TUNE the thing for no boost.

Thanks for everyones input...

I had a look this afternoon and ive got the components on the shelf at work so it wont really cost me a cent to try... I understand about the compression ratios, cams, ECU maps ect being set up for a factory turbo setting. I guess ill give it a crack and see how it goes over full tank of city driving and the best thing will be if you want to give the car a boot here or there it would simply be the flick of a switch and up goes the boost...

Cheers

A better approach to better fuel economy would be to buy a wideband O2 sensor that can output a narrowband signal, wire it in place of the standard O2. Get a NIStune and run O2 feedback across the whole map.

I will say however, if this is for your Stagea, it will be the biggest pig ever.. without VCT to help bring my laggy highflow on boost the heavy assed wagon was absolutely terrible to drive around town. Terrible.

And my fuel economy wasn't better at all. It was much worse because the engine was labouring trying to haul the wagon around when it really needed a bit of boost to help.

Or.. buy a 4cyl N/A daily.

so so many negative people! try it and see and report back your results, its better to do that than give these cocks the chance to spout off, in the real world they would just get a punch in the mouth and be on their way but this is the internet and the cock is free to shxit on everyone, I believe the idea is at least worth trying, best of luck with it!

I don't see the point in messing around and making your car go like a slug just to save a few penny's. It's already been said but i'll say it again... control your right foot better, that also goes with things like how you use your gears and how you decelerate.

Controlling how you bring on power with your right foot along with short shifting and letting the engine over run on deceleration are a sure fire way to save a good amount of fuel and not have to screw around and deal with a sluggish car.

If you're that desperate for fuel economy the word "hatchback" comes to mind.

The money saved on fuel (if web possible) set up like this, you will waste constantly changing plugs from being fouled, you'll also waste money on getting the soot cleaned from the rear bar. Not to mention since the car will be a slug, you'll be using more throttle to get going etc.

In the end, I will be a big useless waste if money. And, you bought a car that is powerful, to make it not powerful.

It's like calling a hooker over, to not have sex with her.

Tell Me, why didn't you just buy a toyota prius?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...