Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate, nice car, those videos make me moist. I'm about to put a Neo in my car and my spec sheet is exactly the same as yours haha. Exactly what highflow do you have?

Edited by iruvyouskyrine
  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks the goods, but expensive at $1955 if you were doing it again would you keep this turbo or what other options would you look at? And you wouldn't happen to have the part number for the manual spigot bush, my motor as also auto so i'm guessing i will need one too?

I got it free with the car, personally if I did it again I would buy a hypergear, not BB but performs slightly better and only ~$1k A genuine garret would be the best but I want stealth so I can pass a regency inspection without having to change a single part.

Sorry no idea about the part number, just call up nissan they will know what you are talking about.

Edited by Rolls
  • 4 months later...

Hey Rolls,

Been reading your thread and was just wondering how you got passed the crankshaft pulley being a different size to the r33 one.

You still using the rb20 acillaries?

Car is awesome btw

Josh.

Edited by Saroon

Hey Rolls,

Been reading your thread and was just wondering how you got passed the crankshaft pulley being a different size to the r33 one.

You still using the rb20 acillaries?

Car is awesome btw

Josh.

Using rb20 ancilleries and got different sized belts as I kept the r34 crankshaft pulley. Basically as long as you use R32 or R33 ancilleries all that needs to change is getting new belts, at least that is what I think I did as I remember buying new belts.

Edited by Rolls
  • 3 weeks later...

Blew up 3rd gear finally so I bought a 2nd hand box off a member on here that said it wasn't noisy and 2nd syncro was a bit crunchy on high speed changes.

Put it in and the input shaft bearing whines so loud it sounds like a gilmer drive and 2nd syncro is so bad you have to double declutch into neutral to go from 3rd back to 2nd.

Pretty pissed, I know you risk it with 2nd hand boxes but when people say it is fine and it isn't, that really shits me.

Not really sure what to do now, whether to pull it apart and put a new input shaft bearing and use the syncro from my old box, or look for another 2nd hand box. Both are risky.

Sigh.

  • 2 months later...

Blew up 3rd gear finally so I bought a 2nd hand box off a member on here that said it wasn't noisy and 2nd syncro was a bit crunchy on high speed changes.

Put it in and the input shaft bearing whines so loud it sounds like a gilmer drive and 2nd syncro is so bad you have to double declutch into neutral to go from 3rd back to 2nd.

Pretty pissed, I know you risk it with 2nd hand boxes but when people say it is fine and it isn't, that really shits me.

Not really sure what to do now, whether to pull it apart and put a new input shaft bearing and use the syncro from my old box, or look for another 2nd hand box. Both are risky.

Sigh.

Save yourself the pain and just buy another 2nd handie.... pulling gearboxes apart sucks a big bad of d+=ks.

Rolls you car makes similar power and torque to mine... Going another RB20 box isn't going to last; you may have to bite the bullet and get a RB25 box.

My RB20 box lasted 21 years of abuse (and 5 years at around 240rwkw) until I was overcome with a quest for more torque. One day on the dyno with my current setup, had it whining like crazy and in need of replacement. 250rwkw seems to be all they can handle.

I don't do drift or burnouts so my driving style is probably fairly mild, I don't think it would stand up to track abuse day in day out. It does however handle fast shifts and has been almost 4 years with that power behind it and still has plenty of meat and grab on it, it is starting to shudder a little when stone cold in winter but is great the rest of the year.

Rolls you car makes similar power and torque to mine... Going another RB20 box isn't going to last; you may have to bite the bullet and get a RB25 box.

My RB20 box lasted 21 years of abuse (and 5 years at around 240rwkw) until I was overcome with a quest for more torque. One day on the dyno with my current setup, had it whining like crazy and in need of replacement. 250rwkw seems to be all they can handle.

If I did any track work I'd agree with you, right now I'm just looking for the easy solution, don't think I'll keep the car long enough to warrant the $2k investment in putting a 25 box in.
Edited by Rolls
  • 1 month later...

I've got new ones coming and was goin to flow test them just for peice of mind, but as they do come with a flow sheet not sure why they would lie ether.

How are you finding yours? My are quite poppy on low load which I think is due to an average spray pattern, fuel economy is great though and power is fine.

  • 10 months later...

Put car up for sale a few weeks ago then it got written off :(((

10530662_10152157638980764_8147808908768

10468684_10152157638970764_7730849713257

The impact snapped my f**king seat in half! was a big hit, was lying down for the head on which saved me from hitting my head on the steering wheel.

Selling the boost controller if anyone is interested (eboost street)

Yeah even the roof bent, both doors were about 5cm away from closing lol, tail shaft snapped and the exhaust ripped off the end of the turbo, think they whole car is 5cm shorter after the impact.

Got $10,500 from insurance so shopping for an XR6T now, found a few around $12k and some modded ones with 400kw around $16k, going to be fun times!

Edited by Rolls
  • 5 months later...

awesome read up man such a shame it got hit!! feel for you after so much effort to make it into the car it was..

if possible rolls id love to pick your brain loom wise..

im about to tackle a neo conversion and would love to keep my rb20 g4link computer and wire in the vct..

im electrician by trade so the actual chopping and soldering etc doesnt worry me at all i just dont know what ill have to change, wire etc haha

thanks for any help in advance :)

It was a blessing in disguise, the xr6t I have now makes 340rwkw with peak torque at 3k and peak power not much after 4k until 6k. Torque monster, so much nicer to drive as well.

To keep the ECU you really need to keep most the sensors,I used RB25DET series 1 intake and everything so it was a bit easier as I only bought a long motor, not one with loom and everything else.

Either way CAS has to be re-wired back to front, eg

4-1

3-2

2-3

1-4

I used knock sensors from an rb25det series 1 though the neo ones might be compatible though, I used the neo coil packs and simply cut the rb20 igniter off, eg wire all the inputs to the igniter direct to the coils. I don't have a drawing as it is so simple to figure out once you look at the wiring.

Z32 AFM (you'll max the rb20 one so fast it isn't funny).

my mate did it with all the neo running gear and only changed the cas wiring, removed igniter for coils and replaced TPS, everything else just worked I'm pretty sure. I'll msg him and double check for you.

edit: My mate used full neo motor with rb20 loom said all he did is use all series 1 rb25det TPS, deleted the traction control from the TB, wire cas back to front and he wired the VCT to have power permanently (not optimal but better than running without it).

Most of the plugs from the rb20 loom will plug into the neo sensors, you might need to swap the injector plugs I think that is all.

I have the eboost street for sale that I used if you want it, it needs a new loom which is about $80 so will sell the unit for cheap.

It is really easy to do, only took us a few hours to do the electrical work and it started even with the rb20 tune (though didn't drive).

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...