Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The rear subframe bushes are leaking in my r32 gtst, so to replace them I was thinking of getting the Whiteline rear subframe mount kit (part number W92446) through JUSTJAP. Does Superpro or anyone else manufacture the part I need, if so what are the part numbers??

Also, Id imagine the front also has similar sort of bushes which prob need replacing while Im at it.......correct me if I am wrong.........so what would i need for the front?

I have searched the manufacturer websites but no one has many listings for skylines as you would all know. I have searched the forums to get some more clarity on this subject, but no one really lists part numbers.

One last thing, those pineapple bushes(Subframe align and lock kit), are they worthwhile to fit at the same time?? (Whiteline part KCA349)

Thanks

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371632-r32-gtst-rear-subframe-bushes/
Share on other sites

Dont bother with those whiteline mounts or drift pineapples/subframe lock and align kits

Your better off using the JJR bush kit i have linked below. They will fix everything at once. No need to drop the whole ass end out of the car entirely to replace the bushes, all you do is lower the cradle and slip the alloy bushes in. It doesnt really matter if your current bushes are rooted as they are designed to slip into the gooves of the standard bushes and lock the cradle solid. They work very well

http://www.justjap.c...&cat=398&page=1

The front cross member doesnt have bushes as it bolts up directly to the chassis rails

Edited by ido09s

Dont bother with those whiteline mounts or drift pineapples/subframe lock and align kits

Your better off using the JJR bush kit i have linked below. They will fix everything at once. No need to drop the whole ass end out of the car entirely to replace the bushes, all you do is lower the cradle and slip the alloy bushes in. It doesnt really matter if your current bushes are rooted as they are designed to slip into the gooves of the standard bushes and lock the cradle solid. They work very well

http://www.justjap.c...&cat=398&page=1

The front cross member doesnt have bushes as it bolts up directly to the chassis rails

Seems like a much cheaper option, I thought that you would only have to lower the cradle to do the bushes.......by the way, the hicas has been completely removed and im running s13 gear, would this affect the part i would purchase (pretty sure the r32 and s13 are the same anyways)??? Wait no the parts are listed the same anyway on the link from JustJap.

I think ive seen posts about the jjr bush kit on here.

Do I really need to bite the bullet and replace the inner cradle bushes if they are leaking while i fit the jjr kit???

Edited by mii11x

Replacing the bushes is a big job, you have to drop the whole ass end/subframe out and either burn them out or get them pressed out and then the new ones pressed in.

I got a set of those subframe rings/collars (not JJR but basically identical) and all you have to do is lower the subframe about an inch or two, very easy to DIY and great improvement for the money.

I came across some upgraded replacement cradle bushes the other day, couple of different brands and I think JJR sell one of them...

Here they are, would be worth some research I guess..

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20067&cat=398&page=1

Its a big job, but well worth it. Not everyone likes having their subframe solidly mounted to the car increasing the NVH somewhat.

Sorry mate but i hate acronyms.... I assume you are referring to noise?

The alloy JJR cradle bushes dont increase noise as they dont actually mount to the metal of the car. There is some rubber that shields them from this which is also why they are so good.

I have fitted them to so many cars, some of which had the nastiest looking bushes, and there was no noise apparent after they were fitted.

Many years ago we removed the stock rubber and replaced them with a full billet alloy bush. It was the worst thing we could have done as that has cereated lots of noise through the car :( These alloy cradle bushes werent around back then though so we didnt have much choice. At least we know what the noise is so we dont worry to much about it

I didn't notice a noise difference, and for comfort they were no issue either.

If I did have the time and money I would be replacing the bushes with new ones but you can't go wrong with a quick and easy DIY. :)

Just a short follow up on my original post....well i bought the subframe lock kit (the alloy one) and installed it all yesterday. Very easy job took bout an hour in all and i aint no mechanic. I cant say that i noticed a massive difference in noise from driving. Back end felt kinda firmer, but maybe i was imagining an expectation. Did feel firmer though to me.

Yeah removing the subframe looks like a prick of a job even on a hoist.......you would only replace the bushes for the rear subframe if you needed to do other bushes and/or replace upper and lower control arms for adjustables id say

Anyways thanks for all your help to those who had input

Mick

Hole saw, drill and hacksaw, and a weekend planned. If your spending some cash, then a cheap press will come in handy and let you save money later down the track when doing other parts. Its only needed to do 2 of the 4 bushes, the other two can be persuaded in with a hammer and drift. Ive seen people do it by themselves over a weekend with little trouble.

Yeah removing the subframe looks like a prick of a job even on a hoist.......you would only replace the bushes for the rear subframe if you needed to do other bushes and/or replace upper and lower control arms for adjustables id say

Upper arms are piss easy to replace and you don't need to drop the subframe.

I'm thinking of giving the HardRace items a bash in the manual cradle I have for the Stagea.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...