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I'm weighing up clutches for my r32 GTR. I'd like to know the benefits of a full face clutch vs a 6 puk.

From what I've read the 6 puks are a bit less driveable but I like that in a street car. it won't be my daily so I don't care if it's a bit of a button feeling. It's my preference. Also, I plan on doing it myself (second year apprentice mechanic loves a challenge) is it REALLY that hard? Or just time consuming?

200 kilowatts at the wheels and not sure what I'll need.

Thanks in advance, Sam.

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pick your clutch depending on you end goal if 200rwkw is all you want (as if ) then the the six puk ( horrible clutch ) will hold it fine, 200rwkw + go a twin plate which are much nicer to drive.

200rwkw is very easy, with full exhaust, pods, cam gears and 18psi on the stock computer my R32 made 231rwkw and ran 11.9 but distroyed single plates, 5 in total before going a twin and that one is still in car now some 5 years later

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pick your clutch depending on you end goal if 200rwkw is all you want (as if ) then the the six puk ( horrible clutch ) will hold it fine, 200rwkw + go a twin plate which are much nicer to drive.

200rwkw is very easy, with full exhaust, pods, cam gears and 18psi on the stock computer my R32 made 231rwkw and ran 11.9 but distroyed single plates, 5 in total before going a twin and that one is still in car now some 5 years later

Well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed. and that's enough for now. Maybe 250 in the future. What makes you think the 6 puk is so bad? Why is it bad? What is the difference in 6 puk to full face in feeling?

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Well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed. and that's enough for now. Maybe 250 in the future. What makes you think the 6 puk is so bad? Why is it bad? What is the difference in 6 puk to full face in feeling?

ok, a healthy stock series 1 R32 GTR with only the restrictor removed will make about 170rwkw,

i had 2 6 puks and where grabby, unpredictable and very on/off the 4 puk was worse and the 3 puks was worse again, none of which would hold 231rwkw on a good lunch or quick shift.

the full face are the oppersite easy to slip, very predictable and progressive just like the twin plate, even if you don't want a twin there are some good hyper singles out there that will take 250rwkw but not much more and the good thing with these set ups you get the flywheel clutch plate and cover plate as a direct replacement and if want to unpgrade later they can be converted to twins or even triples

3 of those single plate cost just over the grand mark fitted then i fitted the rest myself cause it was getting to expensive to pay someone, then i sat back and thought about how much it was costing and decided to just go the twin and in the long run it has saved me money and i wish i had of just done it in the first place

rear main seal is a good idea so is the spigeot bearing in the end of the crank

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ok, a healthy stock series 1 R32 GTR with only the restrictor removed will make about 170rwkw,

i had 2 6 puks and where grabby, unpredictable and very on/off the 4 puk was worse and the 3 puks was worse again, none of which would hold 231rwkw on a good lunch or quick shift.

the full face are the oppersite easy to slip, very predictable and progressive just like the twin plate, even if you don't want a twin there are some good hyper singles out there that will take 250rwkw but not much more and the good thing with these set ups you get the flywheel clutch plate and cover plate as a direct replacement and if want to unpgrade later they can be converted to twins or even triples

3 of those single plate cost just over the grand mark fitted then i fitted the rest myself cause it was getting to expensive to pay someone, then i sat back and thought about how much it was costing and decided to just go the twin and in the long run it has saved me money and i wish i had of just done it in the first place

rear main seal is a good idea so is the spigeot bearing in the end of the crank

I had a dyne sheet given to me with the car and it read high 170's and it had the restrictors in and running standard boost with rebuilt steel wheel turbos and full 3 inch exhaust. It also has a factory tuned ecu (forget what tuner but a place that's closed now in Japan) so I estimated around 30 kilowatts extra at the flywheel from removing the restrictors and figured a safe guess of 200 at the wheels but I could be very wrong.

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Do the gearbox gasket and input shaft and tailshaft seal while your there. Job itself is straight forward just gota be creative with ideas when doing it on the ground because the bOxes are heavy but if you got a hoist piss easy.

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I had a dyne sheet given to me with the car and it read high 170's and it had the restrictors in and running standard boost with rebuilt steel wheel turbos and full 3 inch exhaust. It also has a factory tuned ecu (forget what tuner but a place that's closed now in Japan) so I estimated around 30 kilowatts extra at the flywheel from removing the restrictors and figured a safe guess of 200 at the wheels but I could be very wrong.

yeah i'm sure i said stock car with only restrictors removed which is from what you said "well it's a gtr so it's putting out 200 stock with the boost restrictors removed", not one with high flowed turbos ( which is what they do when they put steel wheels in ) a full exhaust and a tuned computer, but yeah high 170s to 200 with the extra 2.5-3 psi sounds about right

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Seriously I think theres a lot of threads with clutch info for a GTR in that power range. But off my head, heres a few for you

1) Nismo single/twin Coppermix

2) NPC big mouth

3) ATS twin carbon

4) Jim Berry Full Monty

Personally I'm using the twin Coppermix and know others that have NPC and ATS. Both with excellent review on reliability and drivability.

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