Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, having some dramas with my car and want some opinions, im struggling to narrow down what the issue is.

its running really rough, it seems to be hunting, and possibly burning oil (im yet to suss out the colour of the smoke properly, however it smells like fuel).

Oil and water are the colours and at the levels that they should be, the cooling system is not pressurising straight away and its not steam coming form the exhaust so im fairly confident that its not the head gasket.

the weekend before last i drove out to port augusta and back (surely getting some dirty ass fuel along the way). My car is my daily driver, and when i got in on wed arvo to drive home from work is when it started missing/runnig rough, i was quite low on fuel at this point.

I have swapped out the plugs this arvo, and they were really fouled. put in a set of new plugs and it runs the same (however i did not gap them cos i dont have my feeler gauges at my gf's place). on visual inspection the coilpacks seem ok, but i really have nfi what im looking for to spot a faulty coil pack. in addition the AFM appears clean and ok.

my question is, what can lead to those symptoms of hunting, running rough and being smokey? rings? dirty injectors? dead coil/ignitor pack? dead AFM?

im grateful for any help i can get!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372049-missfirerunning-rough-and-hunting/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had the same issues in my S15 - turned out I had gotten a dirty batch of fuel (from Southern Cross - never again) and it had clogged up the intake sock on the fuel pump 80%, so not enough fuel was getting through. It didn't seem to lean out, but rather hunted and had similar symptoms to yours. Ended up having to replace the fuel pump and remove the fuel tank to have it steam cleaned internally - there was 1cm of gunk/mud in the bottom of my fuel tank! And that was when the car was only about 30,000km old.

my immediate reaction is AFM, but it could well be the dodgey fuel.

then again, I run mine down to vapour basically every time and thats never happened lol.

also, check all the intercooler piping.

if it was coilpacks,

start the car, pull one clip off at a time and the one that DOESNT make a difference is the one thats not working.

if you disconnect a WORKING coilpack it will become worse.

thanks for the input guys,

first up i'll suss out the joiners and cooler piping to try and find obvious flaws... reckon i will replace the lot as they are quite old and some appear a little perished.

failing that i'll play the coil pack game (am i likley to cop 12 volts up my arm pulling the loom from the coils?).

if that tells me nothing i'll pass it on to a mechanic to suss out the fuel system etc, i dont fancy being covered in petrol again.... got enough of that from that ke36 wagon i had

as for the smokey exhaust/fuel smell, a hole of some sort in the intake, faulty afm, or faulty coil pack makes sense.... the hole in the intake or faulty afm means the ecu could think there is more air than there really is going into the car, and would pump in more fuel than necessary which would make its way out the exhaust. coil pack not operating i suppose would have a similar effect.

nah its a gts-t matt. thanks for the offer :)

the piping is fairly ugly & mismatched... could do with a re-vamp. my fmic uses the stck piping positions similar to a cooling pro one. wont get too far ahead of myself tho... will pull it apart and have a good look at it all.

i have not noticed it leaning out, i have been driving like a nanna cos my clutch is about to let go (soon as i hit boost it slips :( ) *****looks at steve for clutch hookups*****

changing the fuel filter only takes a couple of minutes to do, good idea to check if the fueltank/pump sock is clean if you find your filter is clogged.

taking off individual coilpacks as the car is running wont result in a shock, good idea this one to see if its a dodgy coil.

If your coilpacks are breaking down you could try a cheapfix method..... purchase selleys 401 industrial strength hitemp silicone sealant ($15 bunnings) use a corking gun ($2) and lather the coilpacks in the silicone- helps top wasted arc, but only generaly for boost applications (if your coilpacks are one the way out you're better off purchasing a replacement set).

Clean air filter (pod or panel), clean your Air Flow Metre with contact/brake cleaner spray & make sure your contacts are good. There is a DIY-guide on how to fix faulty AFM's in the relevant section, definately worth while to source a spare afm and testdrive to eliminate this potential problem.

Perhaps after this try a compression test; worse case could be glazed cylinder wall. Start with the basics and work your way from there...

Cheers Brendan, thats some good info. l think the fuel filter is a must, if not only beacuse of how long it has been in the car.

after sussing out the cooler piping (im guessing it would be an obvious leak for it to run so rough at idle). i'll attack the AFM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...