Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well puling the loom from the coils made it run a bit rougher on each one, so that rules the out. Unplugging the afm made the car stall, so it must be working to some degree.

How big an effect will an leak in cooler piping have at idle?

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got this same problem I've been battling for a couple of weeks.

Changed pump Changed plugs gapped to .8 . Checked piping. Problem went away basically after the Pump Then one day the misfire returned worse than ever was almost constant I changed the fuel filter and had a mild improvement

. Pulled the pump out and the sock was so jammed with dirt it wasn't pulling through. Cleaned it out and all good again . Has started to come back again after a week. Anyway i reckon pull your pump out as the sick is probably full of shit

My car did the same thing the day after i got it (blew the intercooler pipe off) Was told it was a realy small hole but F#*K me, it ran like it was on 3 cylinders and blew alot of black smoke. Even if you can't find any obviouse leaks in the intercooler pipeing just have a realy close and good leak. Apart from that i would just do what everyone else is suggesting. Hope you get her running 100% soon :)

alot.

my AFM was rooted, but it still stalled when you unplugged it.

edit: are you north or south?

Im down south Dion. my car is currently taking up space in my gfs parents garage in Morphett Vale :P

a mate had similar issues, new spark plugs, tested different AFM and bought new coilpacks and in the end it turned out to be the ignition module...

Cheers Vu, will add that to the list

Got this same problem I've been battling for a couple of weeks.

Changed pump Changed plugs gapped to .8 . Checked piping. Problem went away basically after the Pump Then one day the misfire returned worse than ever was almost constant I changed the fuel filter and had a mild improvement

. Pulled the pump out and the sock was so jammed with dirt it wasn't pulling through. Cleaned it out and all good again . Has started to come back again after a week. Anyway i reckon pull your pump out as the sick is probably full of shit

okies, will do. what did you use to clean up the pump, im guessing there are some solvents/cleaning products to steer clear of in case they react with petrol

My car did the same thing the day after i got it (blew the intercooler pipe off) Was told it was a realy small hole but F#*K me, it ran like it was on 3 cylinders and blew alot of black smoke. Even if you can't find any obviouse leaks in the intercooler pipeing just have a realy close and good leak. Apart from that i would just do what everyone else is suggesting. Hope you get her running 100% soon :)

hmm wouldnt have thought a small leak would have such a large effect, we'll see!

Hey Carl

I'm putting my money on boost leak bud

Rough idle , hunting, blowing smoke......all symptoms of an intercooler pipe pissing out somewhere

looks like its the next step

If it's IC piping, you owe me a blowie.

Borrow a working AFM from someone to rule that out too and save you the head f**k of buying one if it's not the problem.

fark that is a fairly steep price for IC piping being the cause :P

Yeah if your silicone joiners are a bit old, thats probably the cheapest way to start!

yeop, my thoughts as well... i have done everything that is free so far. time to move on to the cheap fixes :D

finally got some more time to mess about with the car. replaced a bunch of the joiners with fresh look at me blue silicon and new clamps. there were a couple sections that i could not find replacments for (they have a gradual curve in them) so i have not completely ruled out a vacuum leak.

a couple things that i have noticed in the way that it is running are:

  • it runs slightly smoother at idle. however it is still blowing a ton of smoke at idle and makes a nice cloud on gear changes and acceleration in 1st
  • after a bit if driving then coming to a stop it idles at 2k rpm for a little while (up to 1 min) then it drops back down to around 1k rpm and will surge/splutter.
  • when driving at a steady rpm, a change in throttle position makes the car surge/splutter
  • does not blow smoke driving at a steady speed
  • does not want to boost past 8psi (not that i have been trying to, but the slippery clutch means sometimes i dont have much choice in gointg to higher rpm)

does that info help narrow it down for all?

anyone out there have a working green sticker AFM or RB20 igniter pack i can try out this coming weekend? i work in the city and live in the brighton area

ps, thanks for the help so far :cheers:

Igniter pack will be solid gold bro!

Will clean out my aac this weekend, can hopefully sort an afm to test as well.

Faililng those telling me what the problem is it leaves a vacuum leak that is still there, a borked CAS. Or something more sinister

Igniter pack will be solid gold bro!

Will clean out my aac this weekend, can hopefully sort an afm to test as well.

Faililng those telling me what the problem is it leaves a vacuum leak that is still there, a borked CAS. Or something more sinister

You my friend are in luck......i have a spare igniter pack and creank angle sensor you can try, but i'm not sure how well the sensor will work as it hit the ground when i pulled it of my spare motor. If you want i can drop them off on my way home from tafe tomorrow arvo (finish at 4:50) so just txt or PM me the addy.

You my friend are in luck......i have a spare igniter pack and crank angle sensor you can try, but i'm not sure how well the sensor will work as it hit the ground when i pulled it of my spare motor. If you want i can drop them off on my way home from tafe tomorrow arvo (finish at 4:50) so just txt or PM me the addy.

Forgot to leave my number......0433 522 234

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...