Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes you are 100% correct - you got me on the wind chill factor mate... it is non existent for inanimate objects :/

I'll tell you what I do know about Fahrenheit though; the temps in f are different when you look at them in the context of this discussion; 180f = 82.2c , 210f = 98.9c a difference of 16.7c (30f) which I think you'll agree is quite significant.

Those temperature calculator thingys on the internet don't work that bit out for you... lol

BTW You'll love Canada; the people are great, they love to party and of course the snow is just awesome!

There are some top snowboarding spots to check out around Fernie BC (Three Sisters) where I'm originally from.

Yeh 30 degrees Fahrenheit is about -1 degree Celsius lol (as I'm sure you know being you are from Canada). So if a thermostat opens 30f below operating temperature then that is 1c below operating temperature.

It is impossible for a standard heat exchanger (radiator) to bring water below ambient temperature. That would require a thermodynamic refrigeration cycle, eg. the vapor-compression refrigeration air-conditioner in your car. Wind chill has no affect on a radiator unless the temperature of the water is above ambient temperature. If you parked a car with a cold engine out in a freezing cold wind, the water in the radiator would not drop below ambient temperature. However if you warmed the car up first and then parked it in the same wind, it would cool down to ambient temperature quicker than if there was no wind. It would never go below ambient temperature, it's impossible.

Off topic, I've always wanted to go to Canada! Intend on doing a year-long working holiday over there at some stage; snowboarding being my main activity :D

I dont think they sell them anymore i cant find it on there site.

Sorry I hadnt replied earlier.

If you are only hitting 100 deg on the track you dont need to worry so much. An oil cooler will fix that with ease, unless you have one already.

There are also antiboil mixes you can buy that will work up to 130 degrees I believe, or a water wetter agent. I would also pose the question, is a GTR rad any thicker?

Bare in mind oil is the primary cooling system, not the coolant.

Well ive got a oil cooler here and going to install this week and well see how that goes at the next drift day but since its winter and outside temps are under 20 degrees its not a problem like this weekend hit max 90 degrees so will see how it goes with the oil cooler in a few weeks.

I'll tell you what I do know about Fahrenheit though; the temps in f are different when you look at them in the context of this discussion; 180f = 82.2c , 210f = 98.9c a difference of 16.7c (30f) which I think you'll agree is quite significant.

Those temperature calculator thingys on the internet don't work that bit out for you... lol

Fair enough, I don't understand Fahrenheit in the slightest so I'll take your word on that :P

However, it still isn't going to affect much. The thermostat may start to open then but it will only be fractionally. It wouldn't be enough to stop your engine getting up to temperature. You could have a 3 meter thick radiator (for arguments sake I'm making it ridiculous :P ) and it still wouldn't stop you getting up to temp; as long as the thermostat is in working order then the radiator plays no part until the thermostat opens.

Oil cooler is the ticket.

Please document and update the post once you have it fitted, is good info to keep record of in future.

Will do, but the results will be more use for say a day where the weather is 25 degrees plus but that will have to wait til later on in the year.

Where do they them i cant find them.

Hi mate,

The HPI Evolve Radiators are a brand new product that have just arrived - They are now listed on our website for ECR33.

Click the link below for specifications:

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=20266&cat=&page=1

Feel free to send me a pm if you have any questions :)

Cheers,

Steve

  • 2 months later...

Yeh 30 degrees Fahrenheit is about -1 degree Celsius lol (as I'm sure you know being you are from Canada). So if a thermostat opens 30f below operating temperature then that is 1c below operating temperature.

Good son of rajab. There's so much wrong with that it actually makes my brain hurt.

Back on topic, the Justjap cooling pro ones are OK however the bungs don't always seal perfectly (get a copper washer for the water temp sensor) and if you are still using the standard airbox (rather than a pod) the JJR ones don't allow the cool air scoop to fit properly. You can still leave the scoop sitting on top but it's not ideal. The Fenix radiators are lower on the air intake side so the factory scoop still fits. Besides that no problem at all with the JJR ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...