Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Pedal Adjustment.

rad100
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

You need a head torch and/or other work light, a (I think) 10mm open ended spanner, nimble fingers or pointy nose pliers, or a specially made (by you) tool from a bit of bent sheetmetal with a notch cut in it to match the size of the flat on the clutch pedal push rod. Lie on your back, upside down under the steering wheel. Find the clutch push rod where it goes from the back of the pedal through the firewall. There is a lock nut around this rod located behind the back of the pedal. Loosen the locknut. Then you can rotate the rod to adjust the pedal freeplay. If you reduce the amount of rod sticking out the front side of the pedal, then you will lift the pedal off the floor.

BUT. BIG BUT. If you have to adjust the rod so far that there is no rod sticking out the front, and you still don't have a good pedal, then it is quite likely that your clutch master cylinder is buggered and you need a new one. Adjusting the pedal is only a bandaid where you have other real problems.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

12mm spanner, not 10mm

And yes, it's about getting the correct freeplay, not just getting it where you want it.

If you have a broken pedal box, buggered hydraulic system or a poorly adjusted pedal, then it has other issues.

Don't forget that too far in the adjustment will cause just as many problems as not enough adjustment so only make small adjustments ie: 1 rotation of the rod, so that you don't go too far before it's too late

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

also i think i should check its bled properly.

tips on bleeding it?

do you bleed from the cyl on the box or the cyl where the fluid is?

If you are just letting the fluid drip out of the nipple, you're doing it wrong.

I don't give two shits what anyone says but you SHOULD ALWAYS put a clear piece of tubing over the nipple and place it in a jar ABOVE the lowest point(or on the ground I cant remember haha).

I spent about a day trying to bleed my clutch after I changed it. Couldn't do it. Had to press the clutch all the way down and it still wouldn't feel right. Called lube mobile, they didn't take money coz he couldn't fix it and said my fork was broken. My old man neighour came past, asked what I was doing and I told him. He said I was doing it all wrong and without the pipe you will not see how much air is coming out and you also raise the chance of air going back into the system. 10 minutes later my pedal was perfect. That little screw won't really do shit about your bite point. Its more to adjust freeplay. If you have ALOT of travel that does nothing right until the last dead point of the pedal, clearly you have another issue in the system... Ive got about an inch before I can feel my clutch pulling and then the whole way to the floor is just.... normal I guess.

  • 3 weeks later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Incorrect pushrod length maybe?

Or, if you have done the conversion and kept the same master cylinder but let it go dry, you need to bleed that master cylinder properly first, before ANY fluid will go through the rest of the lines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The Bogan
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...