Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$500 for installation and Oil is a good price imo......but no more than that!spank.gif.......it's about 4 hours work with the correct tools.....but 1 stuff up and your screwed!

try this when pricing......tell them it's a 350Z auto...that they will understand...it's the exact same shit.

http://g35driver.com...ml?ref=esp-link

have fun!!! :P

I've read that guide before and it doesn't look too, cough, daunting.

My local guy knew the gear box, but didn't spend anytime reading what was involved with the kit, hence the price range. Been caught before tho, ends up being $990 + GST, not $500, lol.

4 hrs should = $280 to $400 ($70 - $100/hr) plus oil. So $500 would be the absolute max that the job is worth IMO.

Meh, just gonna do it myself, even if it takes a whole day.

Edited by Commsman
  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I ordered mine. Wasn't going to but you mentioned Paypal and I knew I had money left in my account...

Guess I better suck up to dad to give me a hand too... looks like a bitch of a job!

Yep I've got oil. I'm hopeful it won't go wrong!

What's the go with your changeover version? You do the hard core valve body modding and we just fit it?

Backup plan if dad doesn't want to do it is get someone like MV Automatics to do it. No idea what they'd want to do it though.

Yep I've got oil. I'm hopeful it won't go wrong!

What's the go with your changeover version? You do the hard core valve body modding and we just fit it?

Backup plan if dad doesn't want to do it is get someone like MV Automatics to do it. No idea what they'd want to do it though.

yup...you send me your kit(or I can supply at your cost)....I'll do the upgrade to the spare and send it back.....you change it over and send me your old one.

that way your car's off the road for the minimum amount of time.

So your price is $500 for the kit supplied and installed? How much just to fit the kit if we supply it?

Im thinking of finding a shop here to fit it if I decide not to have a crack. This way I will get some sort of warranty and back up service. I assume you won't offer any type of warranty if the kit turns out not to be installed correctly? Not saying this will happen, just looking at options if a shop only charges a small amount more and it comes with a warranty/backup service.

So your price is $500 for the kit supplied and installed? How much just to fit the kit if we supply it?

Im thinking of finding a shop here to fit it if I decide not to have a crack. This way I will get some sort of warranty and back up service. I assume you won't offer any type of warranty if the kit turns out not to be installed correctly? Not saying this will happen, just looking at options if a shop only charges a small amount more and it comes with a warranty/backup service.

Well obviously us being in Adelaide, Craig's just going to fit it to his exchange VB, or yours if you send it up, and you have to install it in the car (which still looks like a shit job...).

I wouldn't think you'd need a warranty with Craig, but if the shit hit the fan I'm sure you'd get looked after.

Sorry mate, that was direct at bigkevracer.

Dads a diesel mechanic, workshop at Dry Creek. He has a shed out the back he uses for his rally cars, with a hoist. Thats where I do my stuff.

Im not going to stuff around. Im sure he can do it, he just might not want to. If so Ill call MV.

Nice, hoist at home, what more could a guy ask for.

Yeah Im thinking of asking MV to fit it also but Im not sure if he would as he doesn't think a heap of the kit for some reason. When I spoke to him he didn't say he would fit it if I wanted, he just said it not worth doing this kit and gave me no other option. Very weird. I hope he would fit it as having a shift kit previous;y done by him I know his work is second to none.

Time will tell I guess.

His loss, No chance the box will hold the torque this engine can produce without it, 4 of us have proven that now and Cihan will definitely ask for it to be done before he will tune another.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...