Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently removed my engine and gearbox out of my R34 Gtt wreck.

Qualified mechanic owned the vehicle from 60.XXXkm up till 90.XXXkms.

Neo6 engine always ran Motul oil, and manual gearbox ran castrol.

Engine oil serviced between 5000-7000kms.

Timing belt was replaced at 70.XXXkms.

Engine comes with alternator and belts etc.

Pictures on the way.

Pick Up Only in Melb 3193

(strictly no postage)

Price: $3000

COD or Bank Transfer

PM me for any questions :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373391-r34-gtt-engine-and-gearbox-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Yes happy to, pm me if ur still interested. :)

Also up for sale:

R34 Front Strut brace $50

Front and Rear Seats complete Set $400

More pics to come.

My link

My link

Front Dump pipe(3") with Oxy sensor $100

Stainless Steel Bellmouth Design

My link

Edited by Sloupos
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...