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R34 Gtt Wont Fire.

slo14

By slo14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
Posted

3rd time I have had this issue. It seems to come and go. Go out in the morning, wont fire. Try again in the afternoon and it does. Week or so later, happens again.

When it doesn't start, pull the CAS out, spin it and no ticking, nothing. Bought a brand new one. When it didn't start, changed it over, still nothing. So it's not the CAS.

Whats next to eliminate. Computer?

Anything else I should be checking ?

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slo14 Rookie

slo14

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Posted (edited)

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

wtf. a new battery fixed that ?

Battery doesn't seem to be the issue here. Cranks over fine if not extremely well. 13+ volts on the factory volts gauge.

Do u have an alarm? Sometimes they stuff up and cause issue's

No alarm I'm aware of. Under the dash there is a switch for Remote start. All stamped Nissan so i'm guessing it is an optional from the dealer. I don't have a button for it thou.

This is very intermittent. Broken one day. Fine the next. Ill have no hair left in a few days. Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming.

Edited by slo14
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
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You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

When you are spinning the CAS, do you have the ignition turned to the 'ON' position?

_x_FiReStOrM_x_ Community Regular

_x_FiReStOrM_x_

Posted
Posted

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

Common problem for some cars (ie, astras, rodeos). If the ecu can't get a good reference voltage the car wont fire. They just crank and crank... Strange problem, i know, but it does definitely happen.

slo14 Rookie

slo14

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I have just checked continuity from the CAS to the computer. Everything checks out.

With ignition on I get the current voltages from the CAS plug:

pin 1 = earth

pin 2 = power - 1.55v

pin 3 = 1 deg - .3v

pin 4 = 120 deg -.3v

So the CAS if definitely getting power and signal.

What else does it need to fire? any other sensors?

If I get it towed to someone that can read from the consult, will that give me an error code to work with?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Now you need to find out why it has dropped 12V to the CAS.

If there is continuity from the power wire to the ECU, then either the ECU is not getting 12V (check power to ECU) or there is a problem with the ECU providing 12V

Also check continuity from the earth wire at the CAS plug to actual earth, not just back to the ECU. Make sure it is grounding

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