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Ah fcuk yous all - I just got home from work - Hope yous are all havinf fun - he bro...

See yous on Satrurday.

Hey Chris, I need to give you back the wastegate flange - and I wanted to talk to you about the .79 or .86 AR rear housing - maybe - maybe - :D :D

hey guys....that was a niiiice meal tonight... :D

now i can understand why everyone was going on about the volcanic chicken..

hehe.....

only bad thing is i scrapped my front bar comin out of the driveway..

that thing is deceptive.....didnt look that steep.... :D

but everything else was nice and it was good to meet some of the people on the forums...

sorry i didnt talk much.....just didnt know anyone except frank... :D

can someone explain why Duncan is at the receiving end of all the jokes ??? :D

Brendan, I put the 3040 with the .73 housing on my car, along with cams etc.. Will be down at the UAS wakefield day if the thing gets tuned by then. Can compare it against your setup then? :P

Sweet mate - I'll be there !

great night guys :P

Thanks Dundan for organising.... DAMN that Volcanic Chicken was GOOD!!!!! bok bok

I went to visit a friend and on my way home stumbled across Akira on his way home..

Akira: good work driving full flight STRAIGHT at those ladies crossing the street dude! You scared the living SHIT out of them, I've never seen middle aged ladies run so fast....




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    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
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