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Seeking Info- Rb20Det Intake & Exhaust Manifolds.

INDEEP

By INDEEP,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BlueRB240 Collaborator

BlueRB240

Posted
Posted

With the limited space you have why not go with a water to air intercooler? the piping will be even shorter than stock if you can fit the stock exhaust manifold. You could place the intercooler right over the coil packs and place the radiator in front which would only be 1" thick.

eightsixboy Mentor

eightsixboy

Posted
Posted

I honestly wouldn't bother with intake or exhaust manifolds, the only one worth getting would be a GTSR manifold but they go for crazy money.

If you can keep the standard turbo just highflow it, will make around 210-230 rwkw and be alot more responsive then a 25 anyways.

If you cant use the standard cooler pipes and a return flow then you might have to go a cheap front facing manifold, not sure how good they are.

Cooler size will depend on boost and power levels, if you are only aiming for around 170-180rwkw then a smaller cooler wont be a problem.

Unfortunently when putting a motor like this in a old car its going to be alot of one of fabricating, you might have to make your own cooler pipes and muck around with different coolers till something fits.

On another note are you upgrading the fuel lines? I would hate to think how small and inadequate the fuel lines on the car would be.

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
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With the limited space you have why not go with a water to air intercooler? the piping will be even shorter than stock if you can fit the stock exhaust manifold. You could place the intercooler right over the coil packs and place the radiator in front which would only be 1" thick.

I think that by switching the hot and cold pipes from my dodgey picture on the previous page, and running the hot pipe under the front of the harmonic balancer into the RHS of the intercooler, I'll get away with it without too much trouble, and without running that much out of the ordinary (as when compared to a Skyline). I figure the closer it resembles a Skyline under the bonnet, they better it's going to work.

On another note are you upgrading the fuel lines? I would hate to think how small and inadequate the fuel lines on the car would be.

Lines will be updated to 8mm braided versions. OEM stuff is plastic, and I really doubt it's good for the pressure of a late-model EFI system. They're also probably 35 years old! Several good reasons to do away with them.

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A cooler like this might work better? Less piping also?

2004602470102364341S200x200Q85.jpg

I had a good poke around the front of the car the other day with an aerosol can (67mm diameter) and because of the location of the front subframe, I can't actually fit anything on the bottom side of the front stone tray/radiator plenum area. Well, not without butchering the stone-tray and completely destroying it's sleeper appeal. Everything is a compromise... :/

INDEEP Apprentice

INDEEP

Posted
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Posted

Why not start with a piece of 4" and flatten it out? Need only be about an inch high to offer the same flow area as 2.5" round.

That's not a bad idea. It would slightly affect the airflow by a localised creating a low-pressure area though I think.

I think I'm just going to have a bit of fiddle with it, and see exactly what I can and can't do. Looking at it will only do so much...

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It would slightly affect the airflow by a localised creating a low-pressure area though I think.

I wouldn't stress too much about that. I'm not even sure what you mean by it. (My profession involves flow in pipework, so I know what causes low pressure, when it is a problem and when it isn't a problem, and I'm not sure why you'd think there'd be low pressure in there or why it would be a problem. But nevertheless, let's continue on with my further thoughts).

Logically, if you squash a bit of 4" down until it is completely flat, then there is no flow area inside it at all, and when you leave it iround it has the maximum flow area. So at some point of squashing it down to a float oval it will have a similar area to a 2.5" pipe. That's when it is about 1" high and 5" wide (if it is rectangular, which it won't be, but close enough). Now this squashed pipe has the same flow area as the 2.5" pipe, but it has a lot more circumference (exactly as much as the original 4" pipe) - so it will have more pressure drop along its length than 2.5" pipe would. But that's not a problem - it only has to be 500mm long to go from one side of the engine bay to the other. The hassle will be to merge a bit of 2.5" pipe into one end and out the other without whatever join you have being a flow nightmare. I suspect that you'l have to look at using a 2.5" to 4" cone and try to blend it out that way. If you get desperate to see what I mean in pictures, I'll have to sketch something and upload a photo of it.

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