Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys! Just a quick question.

After my last stage of installments my r33 gtst is now running over 220rwkw, however im having all sorts of trouble putting that power to the ground and before I go for any more power i think it needs to be addressed.

What suspension/handling upgrades are there out there that I should be looking at for my rb25?

I know a good set of tires is an obvious reason and also a reduction in tire pressure also helps but what other ways are there so I can keep it in a straight line? At the moment under full throttle and it cannot hold grip until the beginning of third :/

Cheers!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373754-traction/
Share on other sites

After some quick research I have compiled a list of things that would help address this issue and improve overall suspension. What do you guys think? Have I missed anything?

Decent tires (Kuhmo Ku36 for street use)

Front and Rear Coilovers (monovalve)

Castor rods

Front & Rear Camber arms

Adj Tie rod ends

Pineapples

Nolathane Control upper arm inner bushes

Nolathane radius rod adj bushes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373754-traction/#findComment-5962711
Share on other sites

Half that list won't actually do anything for straight line traction.

On stock suspension you really should not be having traction issues if you have good tyres and a good alignment. Do those first before doing the rest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373754-traction/#findComment-5962926
Share on other sites

As said above what you listed will help grip or drift where corners are involvrd straightline traction almost goes oposite with softer suspension zettings working better. The adj arms are only used to correct or customise alighnment settings wben you change the geometry for example lowering it.

So just get the tyres and you should find that solves your problem espcially at 220 kw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373754-traction/#findComment-5963004
Share on other sites

ahhh!

i am also having the same problem, just found this post while browsing so i havnt done any research yet,

but im also quite confused as my rb25 is still stock just running actuator pressure (nothing over 9psi)

i can take off smoothly (ie. im not dunping the clutch) and as soon as i get the pedel to the floor the ass jumps around like a mofo, if i grab 2nd quickly it keeps spinning the tires till i grab 3rd

as far as i know all my suspension is stock, but the guy i bought it off did say that it was really low when he got it.

ill check the springs tomoro n hope it wasnt a chop job too :S

thanks for the advice ^^^^^ i now have a list to run through :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373754-traction/#findComment-5964052
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...